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Vi-Pec Rb Plug In, Rb26 Exedy Twin Plate, Rb26 Complete Polished Inlet Mani,rb25 Turbo With Turbosmart Ghetto Gate, Rb20 Gearbox...etc

PIG747
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PIG747

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Vi-pec RB Plug in ecu, this will do all RB's except Rb25neo. has been tuned for an rb20 with r33 turbo stock injectors. Comes with usb cable, aux optional cable, so if you want to run extra outputs or inputs you can and comes with air temp sensor also has inbuilt map sensor. Im after $1200 ono (will post)

RB26 Exedy twin plate (push type) has plenty of meat left on it $1100 ono (will post at your expense)

RB26 Polished Inlet manifold, complete with throttles vacum chamber nitto gaskets. ( all vacum line fittings have dash fitting on them) $600 ono (will post at your expense)

RB25 stock Turbo with 38mm Turbosmart external gate welded to the rear housing of turbo with screamer, when bolted to stock manifold it cant be seen at all unless car is jacked up. $550 ono (will post at your expense) turbo is still bolted on car and running.

RB25 stock turbo $300ono (will post at your expense)

R32 RB20 gearbox no shifter $650 ono

Accu sump with teflon lines, solinoid, pressure switch, custom bulk head made by hypertune and brackets $750 ono

all parts located in castle hill, contact pete 0407008651

http://imageshack.us/g/1/9889736/

PIG747 Mentor

PIG747

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Hi can u post pics of inlet mani thanks luke

click on he imageshack link above.
PIG747 Mentor

PIG747

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reasonable offers considered, just pm me, this stuff is just laying around at the shop need it gone.

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PIG747

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rb25 turbo with turbosmart 38mm gate is know off the car

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    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
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      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
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