Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale: 2005 Nissan YGZ11 CUBE3 1.5L 7 Seater

Price and price conditions: $16,950 neg. I will consider trades for cheap automatic car + cash my way as I already have another car arriving in April. I will also consider reasonable offers and to sell without registration and number plates to interstate buyers at a reduced price.

Condition: Excellent

Contact Details: Juliette - PM / Mobile: 0431 379 828 / Email: [email protected]

Location: Bayswater North, VIC, 3153.

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Flexible. Happy to help interstate buyers organise transport.

For sale I have a 2005 YGZ11 Nissan Cube3 15M. I imported the car in 2010 after meticulously searching Japan for many months for the best example. Super tidy exterior, very clean interior, very low genuine 74,000km's and mechanically flawless. This car will give you many hassle free years of motoring. Happy to show prospective buyers all receipts.

The late model 1.5L CVT 7 seater is the pick of the bunch with ample seating room. Fold the seats flat and you have a van that can carry nearly anything your heart desires. Lift up the seats and look under the floor to reveal secret storage spaces. The bigger engine in combination with the CVT transmission mean that it is quite zippy, but uses very little fuel. Do not even consider the 1.4L Auto as this runs rings around it. Quicker and more economical to boot. Always run on 98 octane fuel and serviced before the scheduled interval (last service done 500km's ago.)

The genuine Nissan Neoclassical bodykit and wheels were added by me in Australia at considerable expense, but they really complete the look of the car. CUBE3 number plates will be included with the sale so there will be no mistaking what your little car is. Car also includes genuine floor mats and slimline window visors.

I will be sad to see this car go, but I know that the new owner will love it just as much as I have. Test drives after hours/on weekends welcomed.

16577906.jpg

IMGP0940.jpg

20786253.jpg

Japan-SatNav.jpg

Japan-Boot.jpg

IMG_0563.jpg

Japan-BackSeat.jpg

Japan-MiddleSeat.jpg

Japan-FrontPassenger.jpg

Japan-FrontDriversSide.jpg

Edited by llama_au
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

what sort of cheap auto might you be after?

ive got a

2003 Holden Astra TS CDX MY03 70000km

Sorry, I have another car now so I'm not looking for a trade. Would you still be interested in my car? Happy to negotiate.

I'm looking at importing a cubic at the moment but only have a budget of 12k. If you ever drop that low PM me

PM'ed anyway :)

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...