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r32 carbon vented bonnet with bonnet pins 350

rebuilt internalgate kkr430 turbo water and oil coolerd t3 flanges .63 rear housing may be .82 will check never been used since rebuild

had it for a spare as my rb20 has one making 240kw on 20psi thought i would of needed this one but after 2 years i dont think its gunna have any trouble anytime soon , also has vband rear flanges

also have a black and blue leather race seat 50 bucks

driver side r32 front guard useable cond 30 bucks

jvc 12 stacker 30 bucks

r32 rb20 standed loom in good cond 50 bucks

standed rb20det cross over cooler pipe with stock bov 30 bucks

standed bov 10 bucks

standed rb20 dump pipe 20 bucks

standed rb20 turbo elbow 10 bucks

r32 brand new in box washer bottle 30 bucsk

stock r32 fuel pump good order 20 bucks

genuine gtr front bar missing front lip 250 bucks

1litre alloy greddy oil catch can with fittings 50 bucks

3inch hi flow cat with slid in flanges 40 bucks

gtr rims with new tyres 350 or swap for a pair of drift teks

r32 4 door vertex rear bar needs little work 40 buck

x1 driver side 4 door vertex side skirt 30 bucks

i am after these parts

r32 stock bumpers , rear has to be four door

r32 driver seat

s13 silvia bonnet ,bumpers , front guards ,

located launceston 0409427055

stock

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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