Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 V-spec GTR 1996

78,xxx genuine KM, only 5000KM on the full build

Engine Full built Rb26Dett
-Blueprinted & balanced
-JE forged pistons
-JE rings
-ACL race bearings
-ARP head Studs
-ARP conrod bolts
-HKS metal head gasket
-Full head over haul
-Head ported and polished
-New valves & HKS valve springs
-HKS 272 cams ( aggressive offset idle ) very lumpy
-Full VRS set Genuine
-Tomei 0.5 mm oil restrictors
-N1 oil pump
-N1 water pump
-Ever seal and welsh plug replaced
totalled at over $15,000 engine build with receipts & photos

performance parts
-Garrret N1 turbos x2
-HKS full stainless Exhaust Twin Drag system
-HKS super Dragger intercooler + hard pipe kit
-Splitfire coil packs
-Apexi power intake duel pod filter hard piping +cold air feed
-Power FC dejetro (maf-less) & hand controller tunned by Morpowa 340awkw @ 18psi
-Blitz SBC elec boost controller
-SARD 770cc injectors
-bosh 040 550hp in tank pump

Stop, steer & driveline parts
-BC BR coilovers 32 damper adjust + height adjust
-Tein front castor arms
-whiteline Sway bar D bush + link F & R
-GTR strut Brace F & R
-GTR under floor bracing F & R
-F & R diff been rebuilt
-Gearbox Rebuilt and strengthened
-OS giken Twin plate Clutch new!
-Tomei shifter kit
-Nismo Slave cylinder
-Nismo strengthened pivot ball
-Nismo brake lines
-new brake pads all round Street/track
-Brembo break upgrade 356x33 2 piece rotor
and Ferrari Brembo callipers. Huge
-TE37's wheels 18x10 white
-Toyo R888 semi slick tyres 275-35 R18 legal new!

Interior & exterior
-Nismo 320kmhr dash 11,000 rpm redline
-MoMo sued steering wheel carbon centre
-I performance carbon gear knob
-Carbonetics carbon font lip
-Jap Rear bar with diffuser fins and side skirts
-HID headlights
-Every globe/light has been replaced with SMD ultra white

alot more that i have forgot to put in as the list go's on.

Car has seen 5000km on above list of modifications. Has had another major fluid and oil change 100km ago engine,gearbox,diffs,altessa,coolant,power steer,break,cltuch, Motul & HKS oils used

LINK to carsales add with photos. to large to post on here.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1996-14303307?eapi=2&base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=5&find=v%20spec%7cCarAll&__N=1246%201252%201247%201282%204294963846%204294963593%20901%201216&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Price%3a30000%2cMax%7e0.5&sort=default

genunie sale please dont waste my time, any geunie questions feel free to contact me.

Alex 0421340064

post-44700-0-41380100-1362526957_thumb.jpg

Edited by PSYKO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...