Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so I'll start at the beginning. I bought my 93 r33 gtst and everything seemed to be fine, drive well, made good power, etc. After a week or two it stalled out of the blue and wouldn't start again. First check was fuel pump which was getting no power. Took it to a good friend of mine at a performance shop and it turned out to be a fuse in the drivers footwell. After getting that replaced I had it dyno'd to get a more recent power figure (sheets I had from previous owner were for 2007). At this point I was told it badly needed a retune; running very rich. After the tune it was fine for a few days then the car began idling bad (fluctuating between 600-1500rpm) and would sometimes even stall. I checked plugs, coilpacks, injectors, replaced the fuel filter and had the AAC valve cleaned, this helped the idle problem but didnt fully eliminate the fluctuation. Few weeks went by and then YESTERDAY my power steering started to groan at startup and I could hear a loud tapping/scraping noise from the front of my engine. Upon inspection (engine running) I could see small dusty elements floating around the front of the engine, car would idle VERY low and then struggle and die. Given my power steering was groaning and the ticking noise sounded to be coming from the belt area I removed the power steering belt and while I was at it the air con belt as well (no condenser anyway). Power steering pulley seems to have a bit of drag when turned by hand. I've left the belt off and am now back to driving a car with no power steering until I can get it looked at properly. The tapping/scraping noise is no longer present, idle has greatly improved but now the battery light in my dash is constantly on when the car is running. My first thought was alternator but before I rushed into too much I was curious to see if anyone else has bad this problem and what the cause was?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421921-r33-battery-light/
Share on other sites

i cant help you out with your issue, but it wasnt too bad to read :D prob could have used a paragraph or two though...

i had my timing belt and water pump ect changed cause it was leaking and ive noticed a similar sound to yours, its on that side but cant tell if it up high or down near the pump, i tried chagning the fluid and it didnt do anything, i have no idea atm might have to go back to the mechanic, he did think it was the fluid.

dont mean to highjack

is your battery all good? have you tested it? although if its still starting that prob isnt the issue

Haha I thought I might have dribbled on for a bit too long. Yea I tested my battery and that's all good, upon inspection I noticed my main belt wasn't straight between the crank and alternator, looking closer I could fit my finger between the back of the harmonic balancer and the timing cover..

Long story short the rubber in the centre has worn away completely and the outside of the balancer is just spinning on itself, pulled the outside off and the inner part is still there (held in by the crank bolt). Now to find another balancer that WON'T give me this trouble again and try to get the crank bolt undone. Fingers crossed that's the source of all the problems outlined earlier, at least I know my power steering pump is ok haha :D

Good luck with your problem! Let me know how you go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...