Jump to content
SAU Community

Driving Around With A Leaking Exhaust Manifold Cause Any Damage Apart From Sounding Horrible


Recommended Posts

Gday, posted in general maintenance but didnt get a reply :(

I have a leaking manifold due to one of the holes were the studs screw in being threaded and not having a stud in there. It never was a problem for about 9 months but now i believe it has warped the manifold from the heat unfortunately and in turn completely ruined the gasket for the last cylinder. At first it was just a tick tick tick when cold now everytime i downshift or let off the throttle you can hear loud backfires from the motor escaping the manifold and a bit of a sucking noise under boost. I know this isnt ideal to drive with due to it sounding like a tractor but the manifold gasket and studs have been purchased and im just waiting to buy a new front pipe and decat to do all my exhaust gear at once.

So as the topic states does driving around like this cause any problems e.g bad for valves. I know it takes longer for turbo to spool up, cant hold boost for as long, sounds terrible, backfires very loudly etc but more worried about the motor as this is my daily driver. I would of thought it would ruin economy but it has probably been better as i have been rarely hitting boost. Its a rb25det btw with a stock turbo and internals. Within a week or two it will be fixed but i rely alot on my car and time is always short. ANy input will be greatly appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...