Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So went to the Friday night drifts and was having a pretty good time, car was running well

Was finishing off my 285s and had some stock wheels to drive home on

Anyhow I had a spin which didn't seem all that different to any other times I have had the car spin out on the track over the last few years until I got back on the track and realized something was not right

At 1st I thought I may have popped a tyre as the steering wheel was turned a quarter turn to the right in order to drive straight. I limped off the track to discover that my tyres were ok, however something was very wrong with the back left wheel as you will see in the pics

Pulled the wheel off and had a look, seems like I have bent some rod that has caused the wheel to toe in + also screw up the camber

Put the wheel back on and checked to see that it was not fouling on anything when it turned and that it was tight had no play in it and was not wobbling

Drove the car around the block and it seemed derivable so I went back home at 80kph on the hwy

Surprisingly the car still drives pretty straight, the steering wheel seems to correct the cars direction by moving itself a quarter turn right

Have posted pics of how the wheel is sitting inside the guard

Have also posted a pic of the rod that I think I have managed to bend on the left side along with a picture of the rod on the right side which looks a lot straighrer

Can anyone tell me the name of the rod I have bent and any ideas on what options I have to get this sorted? Might be calling up the wrecker in Victoria that had a few V35s for parts or are there aftermarket items available?

post-9102-0-04199000-1366373115_thumb.jpg straight

post-9102-0-96278300-1366373129_thumb.jpg bent

post-9102-0-37900700-1366373029_thumb.jpg got toe in?

post-9102-0-34766400-1366373072_thumb.jpg

post-9102-0-16468000-1366373103_thumb.jpg

I'm 99% sure its the toe/traction rod/arm whatever you want to call it, I'm hoping that I don't need to get camber arms as well

Now as I am trying to keep the car as roadworthy and defect free as possible dose anyone know what the deal is in QLD about rose joints?

I'm pretty sure years ago when I took my 180sx to the pits after it got defected I had to swap out my aftermarket castor rods for the stock ones as they got knocked back for having rose joints

Had a look at the Queensland transport website but was not able to find anything specific, can probably call them up on Monday to find out for sure but in the mean time if anyone knows

pretty sure that these ones from just jap are rose joints

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16572&cat=&page=2

these ones on ebay look more like urethane/rubber

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Adjustable-Nissan-350Z-Z33-Infiniti-G35-03-08-Rear-TOE-Control-Arm-Bar-Rod-Kit-/271115167760?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1fb92810&_uhb=1

  • 2 weeks later...

I would highly recommend going over the alloy subframe with a fine tooth comb to look for damage.

Check ALL welds and all sections carefully for cracks or stresses.

Also have a think about the arms you put back in; if you use stronger ones they will no longer be the "fusible link" in the chassis and you may destroy the subframe instead.

I had a decent look under the car when it was on the hoist everything appears to be fine

The new toe rods and camber arms were a fair bit heavier than the stock items so I agree with your fusible link comment

Camber arms were fine but I had adjustable ones put in at the same time just in case

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...