Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Idling Problems

georgeonboost
 Share

Recommended Posts

georgeonboost Contributor

georgeonboost

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Been on the forums for a while and just recently (last week) bought a R33 GTR v-spec with a few bolt ons and Power Fc. Love it to bits and im very happy with it.

After owning it for a week i came across my first problem. It had a slight intermittent stutter while cruising along but but your boot into it and it was boosting fine.

Then the next night, it started playing up and wouldn't idle and was hesitate and want to switch off while cruising at low speeds. I looked long and hard through the forums after finally getting the car home which was a pain, we changed the air flow meters as one was pretty rooted and the other looked like it had been replaced at some stage.

This fixed the intermittent stutter i was having while crusing but did not fix the idling issue. We tried to adjust the idle on the AAC but that didn't work as planned.

More research on the forums (thank god for SAU :D), I took off the AAC and to my findings, it was pretty dirty and the spring which is controlled by the solenoid was very sticky. I gave it a clean out with carby cleaner as i didn't really have the time to strip it down into pieces like the DIY thread on here, put it back together and fired her up and set the idle up with the help of the hand controller to get the right revs and it was idling beautifully.

This morning cold start was a bit different. I let it warm up a bit, took off down the street and as i came to a complete stop, it stalled. Started up fine again and i was on my merry way. When the car was warmed up and everything was at operating temps, it was fine and never stalled.

Its got me stuffed. Is there another sensor that may be faulty or do i really need to strip the AAC down completely to clean it up? Is there a way to check for any error codes using the Power Fc?

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

George

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423937-r33-gtr-idling-problems/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...