Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is my first post still learning so please be kind lol i’m looking at doing a bit of a rebuild/restoration to my 1988 r31 skyline 4 door executive. I’m handy with cars and plan on doing all the work i can myself. i plan on buying a spare engine trans and diff to rebuild so that i can take a bit more time doing the work myself i have a few unknowns as to what i’m about to undertake such as what i should replace while i’m doing the work (steering pump and rack alternator etc.) ill break it up and list the jobs to make it easier. i should mention that this is my daily drive not a track monster so i’m just cleaning it up make as if not more reliable than when she rolled out the line with a tiny bit more go.

Engine- i plan on replacing the standard cam with a slightly more sportier one combined with adjustable cam gear i will get the head checked and possible a slight port will be putting in new valves,springs retainers. ill be replacing the head gasket obviously, the block is where my quires lie as to what i should replace and what i should just clean up and not worry about i’m looking at new rings,main bearings and con rod bearings but don’t know what to do about the con rods and crank shaft.

Transmission- the car is an automatic and as i don’t really have much experience with automatics i was thinking about having it rebuilt buy a professional but i was wondering if there was anything that i could do to make it stronger or more reliable? (the current one has a jump from 1st-2nd that drives me nuts!)

Differential- the current diff is a single but i was looking to fit a limited slip differential but again have slim experience with them so a professional shim and rebuild is what i had in mind.

Steering, Suspension, Brakes and Rigidity- this is the part that i think i may need the most help with. the steering doesn’t seem to have an issues at the present time but i don’t know if that while i’m pulling everything out is it worth doing the system or just worry about it when it becomes a problem? as for the suspension i replaced the rear shocks when i first brought the car to get it through the rwc and have front shocks sitting there but ran out of time to put them in so front shock are first on the list was thinking of maybe getting either new springs standard height or new springs that are stiffer as the rigidity of the car is a major problem at the moment the car is rolling round like a pig. to combat this i was looking at a 3 point adjustable sway bar at the front and a non adjustable sway bar at the rear(aftermarket) with all new bushes also looking at a strut bar. as for brakes i’m undecided on whether to go with standard brake rotors or dimpled and slotted rotors due to the fact that the car is a daily drive.

ill also be respraying the car while i’m at it was just wondering if anyone can spot anything i’m forgetting or should do or even just a general opinion on how i should go about this build up would greatly appreciate the input. thanks Pat.

post-106447-0-76618700-1367924006_thumb.jpg

post-106447-0-73897200-1367924297_thumb.jpg

post-106447-0-25154500-1367924314_thumb.jpg

post-106447-0-31245400-1367924323_thumb.jpg

post-106447-0-83628000-1367924328_thumb.jpg

post-106447-0-95965500-1367924347_thumb.jpg

post-106447-0-37681400-1367924353_thumb.jpg

post-106447-0-35276300-1367924358_thumb.jpg

post-106447-0-43718800-1367924362_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424826-r31-rebuildresto/
Share on other sites

is the car going okay? motor smokey or not? if not just leave it be. . if the trans is okay then leave that be to as depending wether its a S2 or S3 (4n71b or re4o1a) you are looking at tween $2000 ~$3000 for a STANDARD rebuild, as too what you need for the block then that depends how worn it is, a mild cam will give ahandfull of KWs

The engine i know isn’t running right according to the previous owner who had it dyno’d and it made more power on gas which should’t be possible with the current gas system (not injected with factory tuning) it is getting tired though almost at 300,000k!. the trans is ok for now but is on the way out with that 1st-2nd kick at the moment my driving is keeping it from getting any worse for the moment. 2-3k seems a bit pricy to me was thinking maybe around 1k might have to look into doing it myself for that price or getting a friend to do it.

carefull attempting the trans rebuild yourself. . its a job best left to experts. 2k is a realistic figure for a rebuild (i paid $2200 for my 4n71b rebuild) and i removed/reinstalled the trans myself

It looks like a nice car, just drive it and enjoy it as it is. You will find out very quickly a rebuild well cost way too much for the benefit.

^^ youve got it ! good parts are hard to find for these cars now and new parts are becoming unavailable from nissan- the main reason i moved on from 31s

StevenCJR31- i might have to start saving then and i think the car is a s3 but have to check further.

superben-thanks it is making quite the first car. The main reason i’m looking at the rebuild is up until recently i just drove it around melbourne while undertaking my cert 3 in engineering-light metal fabrication but got put off about a month ago and was thinking of switching to full time trade school and then moving up to Wadonga( northern victoria) to undertake a cert 3 and 4 in motor sport. Which would mean the car would be doing a lot more country drives and fixing it on the side of the road isn’t something i fancy myself doing.

it certainly has the S3 front panels and tail lights but its easy to fit the S3 bits onto a S2 or S1, nissan made the S2s for less than a year before they started building the S3, if yours is the S3 then you have the more expensive trans to rebuild but the same trans was used on the R32/R33 and is similar to the auto in my S1 r34 which gives you the option of using low K secondhand trans (i picked up a RB25 DE trans for under $250)

i dont mean to sound mean but whatever your budget is then look at doubling it~ if not more

well there isn’t a budget at the moment (i know its stupid) just a end goal i just look at the end product but if they used the same or similar trans on r32’s and 3’s if its a direct bolt on i guess if i found a low k’s one and did a major service on it would be good enough for a daily drive. although I was talking to a trans specialist today and i may be in luck the bloke wanted some jigs/stand things fabricated up so might walk out of it with cost price or a least a cheap rebuild.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...