Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, recently my R33 GTR's battery warning light started flashing and now remains permanently on when the car runs fine and shows no signs of stalling or drained of power. What's going on and how to fix?

Firstly, I had the car at a motor mechanic for a couple of months where it was hardly driven each day so is the battery dead? This battery was brand new and only replaced 5 months ago. Ever since taking the car home, it's been on a trickle charger and only driven monthly but the charger does indicate that the battery has been fully charged so not sure why this is happening.

Recently, my amp/sub combos earth wire going from the "control" went loose so I had to fix and it sparked a few little sparks which is normal so not sure if this had anything to do with it. I assume not ?

Any help would be much appreciated.

alternators have 2 circuits. one for charging and one for the warning light. sounds like the warning light circuit may be faulty. get a multimeter and check the charging voltage on the battery terminals to be sure the alternator is charging correctly

The warning light is a part of the excitation circuit through the regulator.

The regulator is most likely on the way out.

When that circuit fails the alternator stops producing charge as there is no excitation current to produce an electro-magnetic field inside the armature.

Update: so the problem got worst. Slowly the battery just won't hold charge anymore and eventually I found myself stuck in the middle of the road with no power so it's at a friends house now.

You guys think the alternator is home or more the battery dead?

I'm leaning more toward the battery.

Alternator for sure.

The tell tail signs are there.

The battery warning lamp was coming on notifying you that the alternator was starting to fail. Eventually it did completely fail and the entire car from that point on ran off the battery which then lead to a complete flat battery and your car stuck in the middle of a road.

Replace the alternator, stick the battery on charge for 24 hours and you should be good to go.

Thanks guys. Really appreciate it. I will get it looked at by a mechanic this weekend. Hopefully this will serve as a lesson for others.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...