Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i've finally got all my money of those government bastards and i keep getting told i need the power fc not the safc, but seriously i know alot of high hp cars getting arounf with safc's!!! so at what point is the powerfc the better option? i am running a hybrid t3/4 turbo am thinking prolly forged heads and deff a bigger pump so i can run more than the 10psi i can now but wouldnt wanna go much more than 16-8 psi and would be happy with 300-350rwhp....

so what do yaz reckonz ay?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4335-safc-vs-p-fc/
Share on other sites

Neither - go Microtech :P

someones selling one here: http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...&threadid=18058

Reason for this is, if you're trying to push out those figures you'll need to change a few other sensors, and at 350rwp you'll need to either upgrade to a z32 afm, or go for a diff ecu, such as the microtech which runs on it's own internal MAP sensor

Power fc is just a drop in replacement, so runs off of the std factory sensors. Allows big tuning but the sensors are still the same and will need to be upgraded

s-afc is only an AFM interceptor, it adds or subracts a small amount of voltage and tells the factoy ecu this, so that you can tune the mixture a little at each load point

I'm pretty sure that you can't put a MAP sensor or anything else, to by-pass the AFM, since it is requiring an AFM signal, and the two aren't in a proportional relationship (ie - not compatible)

otherwise you could run a haltech or microtech in piggyback with the factory ecu, so that you have the new ecu controlling fuelling and spark and the factory ecu controls the idle and air con etc - if cops look in kick panel it shows std ecu, but factory ecu only controlling the basics

they're all good though, just depends on whichever one you want to have :)

also I think s-afc's are 512 bux from nengun, but can't be bothered looking as 56k dial up is pissing me off ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4335-safc-vs-p-fc/#findComment-68743
Share on other sites

but when using the s-afc you'll be losing kw's

the power fc can be tuned to a fine enough degree (per 500rpm I think...) and thus your power band will be more defined

the microtech I'm pretty sure is universal, and requires a couple of extra sensors (which don't cost much anyway) and a tune up

personally if I were you and you only wanted an apexi piece, then I'd go the power fc

and yep, injectors will need to be upgraded for sure, as well as a few other bits

but with pleasure (fast car :)) comes pain (expenses ;))

taka kaira's url is www.takakaira.co.jp

actually, hmm, doesn't work, maybe it's .com then

I don't know :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4335-safc-vs-p-fc/#findComment-68903
Share on other sites

while we're all on the subject of S-AFC's....

does anyone know what a decent choice is for an S13 sr20det.? I don't want to use a full ecu replacement like a microtech/haltech etc..

so I'm looking at either a piggy back unichip, a S-AFC or getting my ecu re programmed. what ever I choose, I want it to be tunable for a larger AFM like a z32 unit. any suggestions.?

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4335-safc-vs-p-fc/#findComment-68978
Share on other sites

unichips are crap

nuff said :)

it depends on what you've done to your car osc@r, which should determine what you need

and whether you intend on doing anymore modding after the chip

if you are still doing other stuff, then reprogramming your existing ecu (someone correct me if I'm wrong) but that will only remain set to how it was when you had it reprogrammed. That is, if you do additional things to your car it will require retuning, and will cost another few hundred bux. But for up to 500 dollars for an s-afc (which can be tuned at any time) I'd say that that would be well worth it (if you don't want a whole new ecu)

sory if it doesn't make much sense, getting tired!! ;):D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4335-safc-vs-p-fc/#findComment-69047
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Originally posted by skyzerr33

dude with those figures your after u need the pfc as you'll likely need new injectors and the safc want be able to use them to there max potential.

and 500-600 for a safc is abit much even for nengun

pay 540 tops from him or go to takakaria

Recently I was selliing them for $475 AUS Delivered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4335-safc-vs-p-fc/#findComment-80150
Share on other sites

because ignition changes are expensive. eg remap = $500 per tuning session

SAFC's cost $100 for a re-tune. if youre continually modding your car then its unrealistic to keep paying out the large amounts for remaps etc when SAFCs (which may not be the final solution) can provide some tuneability. ignition tuning is also limited by our pump fuel compared to japans isnt it?

i plan on getting a remap once ive finished modifying, but for now the SAFC provides enough tuneability to keep the car runing relatively smoothly. shannon: if youre finished modifying, remap. if you plan on doing more than SAFC simply because its cheaper to re-tune once you modify further

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4335-safc-vs-p-fc/#findComment-80572
Share on other sites

you know once you done the $500 chip.... it can easily be retuned at std tuning cost?

lets see remap $500 plus tune ignition and fuel

Vs

safc $400 plus tune only ever going to do fuel but has extremely sweet rice value blue screen

mmmm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4335-safc-vs-p-fc/#findComment-80577
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
    • I can't speak for the US, but for Canada as I mentioned above, all fuel gases contain ethanol. We have regulations for E5/E10/E15. Each province handles it differently but basically any fuel gases sold must be E10 and slowly increasing to E15 by a certain year. 
×
×
  • Create New...