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No holds and no shotguns, nothing is sold till it's paid for or a deposit is put down.
I can ship anything anywhere if you pay for it. Pickup is available no probs.
Location: Homebush/Sydney




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RB-Z gearbox

RB bellhousing with Z32 rear housing (RB and Z32 gearsets are the same)

- bolts onto an RB-series motor, RB20, RB25, RB26, RB30
- comes with Z32 shifter setup (not pictured)
- great for RB-motor conversions
- if you have an rb30/26 for sale then let me know I might buy it from you and use this gearbox behind it.

Price: $950


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Blitz I-color Spec R twin solenoid sequential boost controller with 3/4 optional extras

*** all up it's a boost controller with gear or speed sensitive boost, boost gauge, water temp gauge, oil temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, multichannel logging system and performance meter ***

- best boost controller hands down
- twin solenoid for stable boost control
- all in one monitoring system so you don't need 6 gauges across your dash
- includes the optional Blitz oil temp sensor, plug and play
- includes the optional Blitz oil pressure sensor, plug and play
- includes the optional Blitz auxiliary-in wiring harness, plug and play
- I set it up to monitor water temperature as well
- can also monitor stuff like throttle position, AFM voltage, injector usage etc
- includes a set of s15 sun visors where I've mounted the display

Price = $750
Blitz triple sensor set sold.
Blitz I-color SPEC-R boost controller still available, price = $500
Price drop = $460

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Auto Service MATSUFUJI s14 clutch pedal brace, may fit s15 and s13 but I don't know for sure.
This braces the clutch pedal bracket and stops it from flexing; is a good mod for those that run tuff clutches or likes to kick it once in a while. Stops the flex and stops the pedal bracket from breaking.

BRAND NEW
Price: $80
Price drop: $60
Price drop: $50
Price drop: $40



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Brand new genuine Turbosmart 4" straight silicon

Price: $20

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Custom s15/s14 catback exhaust with varex oval twin tip / stealth
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Bee-R racing mid pipe with custom axle back and varex oval muff.
Hardwired the flap to a switch but I still have (I think) the wireless remote - you can have both. The flap gets stuck sometimes. Some scraps and bangs here and there. What you see is what you get.
Price: $380


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GTR32 front brakes
- includes pair of calipers. one caliper is missing a bleeder but Vsport gave me another one that seems to fit well - this is the big daddy 32mm thick version - thickest setup from Nissan, rarest of the alloy 4 pots. Was rebuilt and painted black before I installed it.
- includes pair of rotors - 296x32mm - freshly machined
- includes pair of pads - randoms
- includes hardlines
- inlcudes custom Goodridge ADR approved braided brake lines from my s15, probably suits s14 and s13 and 180sx, maybe R32 / R33 / R34 as well?

Price: $400


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Steering wheels
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Works bell 350mm original, left in image, good condition, used = $100
Genuine VERTEX 325mm, brand new never used, DISCONTINUED model, rare --- right in image, BRAND NEW WHEEL used horn button = $450
Deep dish vertex not for sale.


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s15 ignition key light
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this is from the JDM s15 model, aussie delivered models don't have this light ring around the ignition barrel. includes a blue light.

Price: $50

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Here's an IDEA of what it looks like (it's a random google pic)
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s15 tail light wiring looms.
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i have two pairs of looms, from ADM s15s that I was going to rewire to JDM spec so the whole brake lights up.
both pairs = $50
one pair = $30


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this is what it looks like to have the whole brake light lit:
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Carbonetic / ATS ACROSS full 100% carbonfibre single clutch kit with flywheel and throw out bearing + carrier.
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The only reason I'm selling this is because it started slipping over 320wkw, otherwise it's the best clutch hands down - i've used alot of different clutches before this including organic, single, twin, puck, sprung, unsprung etc.
I bought this single plate kit for $1800 and because it was soooooooooo good I'm now using a the same Carbonetic / ATS ACROSS carbon fibre clutch kit, but now I'm twinplate.

The carbon disc looks in good condition but since it slipped I would recommend you machine the flywheel and pressure plate.
The carbon disc brand new measures 4mm, it now measures 3.6mm which is 0.4mm of use - see below for pics.

Suits 5-speed gearbox SR20's, such as s14, s13, s15 5spd, r33 gearbox conversions, z32 gearbox conversions.


Price: $700


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http://imageshack.us/a/img844/5864/l27g.jpg

Here is the pic of the carbon disc when new - new is 4mm, this is currently at 3.6mm which is 0.4mm of usage:
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/1387/ziay.jpg


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s15 center console / arm rest pocket
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This little pocket has mounts specifically for s15 console/arm rest. there's 3 positions you can put it into. great for holding little things or coins instead of rummaging through your whole arm rest pocket.

Price: $40


http://imageshack.us/a/img834/5492/k5i6.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img842/4808/frg1.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img854/8415/u93n.jpg


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Other info:
No holds and no shotguns, nothing is sold till it's paid for or a deposit is put down.
I can ship anything anywhere if you pay for it. Pickup is available no probs.
Location: Homebush/Sydney

Cant get through via pm

Any chance of more pics of the works bell steering wheel?

adamadz2332@hotmail. Com

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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