Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dear esteemed gentlemen,

I can't get the f**king clips undone on the side indicators on my R34 GT-T coupe.

The indicators are easy to pop out of the panel, but i can't undo the clip at all. There is a whole heap of grime all over the place, which I've started clearing off, but I just can't unclip the orange part that connects to the bulb from the wires and clip that come from within the body of the car.

Have i missed something?

I was wanting to to tint the orange indicators with VHT Nightshade, and if it looks crap I was going to buy the Nismo Smoked indicators

Thanks guys!

Mick

I can't see why this would be so hard?

Here's a picture : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/monthly_01_2013/post-98110-0-84344800-1357699519.jpg

Press the black clip down and pull, to remove from the loom, OR twist the whole orange part anticlockwise to remove it from the lens itself and access the bulb/change the lens to a smoke one.

Hi Kurt,

Yeah, I don't understand either, haha.

I when I popped out the indicator from the panel, it was even more filthy than in the linked photo. I eventually scraped most off with a few toothpicks, and today at work I had someone else have a crack - it came out (the the clip from the loom!) first time - I must have loosened it up ;)

We then had a try at the other side, where I had not yet scraped off the gunk, and we could not get that off within our lunch break.

In the mean time, I will simply twist from the orange bulb part and give them a spray with the nightshade tint

So to answer my own question, no there is no trick to it, but you may find it easier with the built up gunk scraped off.

While I have your attention, there was a lot of clear/light yellow gel type of material on the inside of the clips and loom - should i be alarmed at this?

Thanks!

Mick

Glad you got it sorted Mick! .. The gunk you see is most likely old foam that was once applied (usually sprayed or dipped) from the factory. It is to stop the wiring harness from banging against the inside of the fender and making noise. When it gets old and perished, it looks like that, dirt. As for the gel, it may be corrosion inhibitor. Some kind of dielectric grease to stop moisture from penetrating into the connector?

Cheers! and i'm glad i don't have to worry about the gel. In fact, should i actively try and put more in there?

Moving on, I think i may turn this thread into a before and after of tinting the side indicators - shall add photos as I go for anyone that might be interested

Had a quick google and haven't come up with anything definitive. I do know for sure that they must light up amber, so I suppose that they can't be too dark/thick for the light to penetrate.

I've actually had second thoughts, and have gone ahead and ordered Nismo smoked front and side indicators. Should be on their way from Japan soon hopefully! Will post befores and afters

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys,

For those interested that may come across this thread, here is my 98 R34 GT-T with Nismo Smoked Side and Front indicators. Side indicators came with orange bulbs, and the front indicators came with orange bulbs and the unit where the bulb plugs into and that plugs into the wiring harness.

Easy job to fit

Thanks,

Mick

post-126851-0-78466200-1394763073_thumb.jpg

post-126851-0-75383400-1394763080_thumb.jpg

post-126851-0-81158600-1394763087_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...