Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 Gtt has a power steering leak.

The leak is coming from the lower banjo bolt that has a hard line running off it too the power steering rack.

It is just an occasional drip at the moment how ever when you hard lock the steering wheel it squirts out with high pressure.

Both rubber washers on the banjo bolt were worn and broken.

I have tried replacing the washers with copper ones and this didn't work I also replaced them with the same rubber washers that were originally on there and that didn't work.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440863-r34-power-steering-leak/
Share on other sites

No they are not the ones you have described. On the banjo bolt it has the following at the bast of the bolt copper washer then rubber washer then goes through power steering line then another rubber washer then bolted in.

Is this how all Gtt's are on this?

I will have to do double check the surface to check it's smooth.

Any one have any other comments or suggestions

Sounds like somone has modded yours to fix a leak. On Fast it shows a copper washer on either side of the banjo and thats all.

This is for an R33. But I dont see why a 34 would be any different. I've only ever seen dowie washers or copper washers used on banjo bolts, 1 on either side.

Something seems a bit odd with yours. Id check there is no obvious defects on the banjo or pump (Or even the banjo bolt) that has caused the previous owner/workshop to mod it in such a way to band-aid fix it

If you dont want to replace the hose, you could try installing it again with a bit of loctite 515 or similiar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...