Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU,

I have a few bits and pieces for sale.

1. RB26 block (05U) as pictured. Will also include stock girdle (not pictured) - $200

IMG_5351_zpsd03f1d10.jpg

IMG_5352_zpsbb55c0a9.jpg

IMG_5354_zpsa8001079.jpg

IMG_5355_zpsb206f4af.jpg

2. Stock R32 GTR coilovers - $300

20121101075024.jpg

3. RB26 individual throttle bodies - $100

img1938x.jpg

4. Stock RB26 cam gears - $50 for both

IMG_5356_zpsb083e370.jpg

5. Stock RB26 cams - $100

IMG_5357_zpsa70bfe5f.jpg

6. Stock RB26 crank - $150

IMG_5358_zps89bb293b.jpg

7. Stock RB26 injectors 444cc (note damage to one injector) - $50

IMG_5359_zps755406ac.jpg

IMG_5361_zps5ed67c91.jpg

8. Stock R32 GTR turbos, dump pipes and headers - $100

9. Stock RB26 pistons - $70

I forgot to take photos of the turbos and pistons but I want to get rid of it all

I am located in Sydney but can post at buyers expense. I tend to use e-go for shipping as I have found their service to be both reliable and cheapest.


Open to all offers, please send me a PM or contactable on 0422 486 676, SMS preferred. More pictures available on request. Thanks for looking.

Matthew

Edited by andotard
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442858-stock-r32-gtr-pieces-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Do you have the throttle body adapter that sits between the throttle bodies and head?

Hi there, I'm using it for my rebuild sorry mate

Hi mate would you be able to send me a picture of the damaged injector. Is it still use able or not really.

The injectors were in good condition prior to stripping the motor. I honestly think I just broke it taking the injector off the motor. I don't think the broken plastic seal will affect the spray pattern or flow of the injector but I've priced them accordingly. I'll let you decide from the photos should you think otherwise.

IMG_5383_zps23cf2917.jpg

IMG_5385_zps6b6961f9.jpg

IMG_5384_zps4f1bcc2c.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...