Jump to content
SAU Community

Ddrift For Sale, 1990 S13, Sr20Det, 2540 Turbo, Lt8 Ecu, $3800 Ono **damaged, Urgent Sale**


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, haven't been around here for a while..

I'm moving overseas for work and finally need to sell my S13 which has been sitting unregistered for 3 years. I planned on fixing it up for years but was always busy with work or overseas and never got around to it. When getting the windscreen changed over in 2011, for the car to get re-registered, the mechanic found that the A-Pillar had cracked near the engine bay (pictured), got it home and never got around to fixing in time for rego and the car has been sitting there untouched ever since. Has other comestic damage, passenger front qtr panel is a bit bent from when it used to be very low, fair few scratches on boot and scattered here and there over the car. The car was running perfectly before it was left sitting dormant, it's run a 12.59s 1/4 mile before being slightly detuned where it was running 204rwkw afterwards, battery is dead as, if I had time I would part it out but only have a few weeks before I leave. Perfect for half cut, parts or even doing up and getting back on the road (never got it structurally checked though).

Please no time wasters/low ballers, I've tried to list all the flaws I can think of and as much info as possible so that I dont waste yours and my time.

$3800 or nearest offer (need to get rid of this ASAP so all serious offers will be considered)
If you're genuinely interested please call or txt me on 0432 215 608

FYI, I'm located on the Upper North Shore, Sydney


1990 Nissan Silvia (S13)
Engine:
- SR20DET Redtop
- XTR GT2540 ball bearing turbo
- TurboSmart manual boost controller @ 15psi
- 600cc injectors
- Microtech LT8 (dyno tuned by TM Autosports)
- Aluminium Radiator
- Custom oil catch can
- Custom Aluminium Airbox
- FMIC
- S14 Gearbox
- Heavy duty brass clutch (Daikin something, dont remember exact model)
- S15 Helical diff centre in SR20DET S13 diff

Suspension:
- 5 Stud conversion using Z32 hubs and brakes (Ferodo DS2500 pads)
- Tein Coilovers in the rear
- KYB shocks with super-low springs in the front

Interior:
- Retrimmed in Pistachio Green
- Relocated battery to boot
- Aftermarket headunit, 6x9s, 10" subwoofer and amplifiers in boot

Exterior:
- Full Vertex Bodykit
- Resprayed S15 metallic Grey (Pewter?)
- 18" Deep-dish HR Racing Rims

NOTE: Car comes with two spare front qtr panels (blue) I have lying around in the garage..

Pics:
IMG_4334.JPG

IMG_4325.JPG

IMG_4342.JPG

IMG_4343.JPG

IMG_4338.JPG

IMG_4352.JPG

IMG_4350.JPG

IMG_4347.JPG

IMG_4351.JPG


Thanks,
Robbie

Edited by ddrift

PLEASE NOTE BEFORE CONTACTING ME: This car is NOT registered, it will need to be towed home by winner via trailer or tow truck and will need a bit of TLC before attempting to reregister it.

The following things at a minimum must be done:
- All Oils, Fuel and Filters need to be drained and replaced
- Windscreen replaced
- Most likely new battery
- Someone to fix up the A-Pillar to engine bay crack mentioned below and pictured

Edited by ddrift

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • 12+ months passed so they have no obligation to do a warranty claim. It leaked from the rear circuit. Front circuit was fine, but I tried many times to bench-bleed and in-car bleed (wasted 1L of Penrite racing brake fluid) to no avail. Threw my old BM50 or whatever the standard R32 GT-R BMC is, brakes went back to normal. So from my very limited anecdotal experience, I cannot recommend HFM, even though a lot of their products looks good. Just my experience (I have a genuine Nissan BM57 in a box waiting to be installed now).
    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
×
×
  • Create New...