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Hello all,

I've been gettin some strange rattling type noises with my car every now and then and I believe one of me HICAS electronic components is faulty.

I'd say its part of the HICAS eletronic components because when these rattling noises happens, my HICAS sensor fault light comes on and will remain on until the car is turned off.

This problem has been occuring infrequently and is gettin annoying.. Does anyone have any idea on where I can get this checked out? as I aint very mechanically minded. Or even better if anyone here knows what to/how to check that would be awesome. :cheers:

My car is under the top warranty cover from some warranty place (part of the purchase of me car) so any proper repairs and stuff will be covered under warrant..

Oh if a place is recommended, then please try to recommend one on the gold coast.. :(

Thanks..

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Your diff and or ABS braking is on the way out.

:D

Don't know who told you that but the hicas system has nothing at all to do with the ABS or the diff at all....

There is a diagnostic check that you can perform on your own car and it will tell you exactly what's wrong with the system.

You don't have to be that mechanically minded to do the test and the best thing is it won't cost you anything to find exactly whats wrong.

Just make sure the power steering reservoir is on the full mark on the dip-stick as this will make the hicas light come on and the diagnostics won't find this.

Diagnostics found here:

http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm

When attempting to do diagnostics be patient as it might not work the first time, but it will work if you keep at it.

MEGA

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you COULD do a HICAS diagnostic...

This is the sequence that got me into it. After trying a million times and nearly wearing out my steering wheel and brake pedal :rofl:  

(1)Turn ignition switch off

(2)Set shift lever to P or N (auto) or neutral position (man)

(3)Turn ignition switch ON

(4)immediately start engine

(5)Turn steering wheel LEFT TO RIGHT at least 20 degrees from central position 5 times or more. remember, LEFT TO RIGHT = 1 movement.. repeat 5 times  

(6)then immediatly after this press the brake pedal 5 times.

now here's the bit i'd never read before... DO ALL THIS WITHIN 10 SECONDS OF STARTING THE CAR ie go like an escaped mental patient

This is the first stage of diagnostic mode. raise the rev's of the car to 2000rpm and turn the steering wheel 180 degrees left or right and the rear wheels will move that magical 1 or so degree in relation to the steering wheel.

To go further into diagnostic mode...

(1)Depress and release brake pedal

(2)turn steering wheel left to right again at 20 degree+ movements

(3)(man)depress clutch pedal move gear lever to any pos. except neutral, then return to neutral and release clutch pedal

(auto) disengage parking brake lever, move lever to anything but park or neutral,  then return to park.

(4) drive car at least 3 meters forward at a speed of at least 2km/h, but not over 30km/h.

that should put the hicas into full diagnostic mode.  just interpret the hicas light outputs with those on grahams hicas section.

:rofl:

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When there is a problem with diff or ABS, especially ABS, the HICAS light will come on...

No... Sorry but the ABS system has it's own warning light, a yellow one, if there is some thing wrong with the ABS system (ie wheel speed sensors, ABS module etc) this light will come on, ABS on a GTS-t is rare as it was an optional thing, but on the 4wd models like the GTR or GTS4 they almost all have it unless it was removed as they already have the individual wheel speed sensors on the front wheels so they got the ABS as standard equipment.

The Hicas system doesn't have anything to do with the diff, sometimes the breather on the diff gets blocked open with dirt but there is nothing attached to the diff to trigger a warning light at all.

Hey Funky I have alread posted a link ot the hicas diagnostics in an earlier post, but yeah your right they must have missed it if you did.

MEGA

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Ok guys.. sorry I left out a very important information.. that is mine is a triptronic R34 , all the diagnostic seems to be directed to R33 or 32s. :)

Its played again over the weekend, I spoke to my mechanic and he advised that I will need to do a "data streaming" to find out what exactly is the fault, as the problem comes and go... Over the last weekend it got a lil bit silly, but fine yesterday.. :confused:

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