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1. ARC FMIC + Piping for sale. To suit R33 or R34 GTST/GTT (I think it's a different model for the GTRs). Bought the FMIC without piping, then bought piping off another member here. The piping is black because it has been coated with heat-dispersant paint. Comes with original ARC hose joiners.. Note: pictures show there are a couple of squashed fins in a row, FMIC arrived like this, I don't think it affects performance and wouldn't be too hard to fix. FMIC still works perfectly. Selling car so don't need this anymore. This is a piece of history, ARC before they closed down and became ARC Brazing. Price: 600$ ONO. Pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oic47nvqhqvqyvs/AAD7LB0lS4v1WD0M9MWxs7n1a

2. White face BF Defi gauges + Link Unit I [ONLY] - no sensors. Water temp, oil pressure, oil temp, boost. Bought when I was in Japan, they come in a custom made carbon gauge cluster. Price: $400 ONO, don't ask to separate. Video here https://www.dropbox.com/s/od7he249gu2iunh/VIDEO0068.mp4

3. Nismo valve caps. Price: $25 + $3 postage. Pics https://www.dropbox.com/s/eqi73bvz6twjwh0/IMAG2801.jpg

4. Red RAYS ENGINEERING valve caps, aluminium. Price: $25 + $3 postage. Pics https://www.dropbox.com/s/eqi73bvz6twjwh0/IMAG2801.jpg

5. Apexi pen-style turbo timer, black. Purchased second hand but then realised didn't need it. Bought from another member here on SAU. Very good condition, comes with all wiring and sensors, very little/no markings in the screen. Price: $50 + $5 postage. Pics https://www.dropbox.com/s/eqi73bvz6twjwh0/IMAG2801.jpg

Items located in Sydney NSW. Postage available please contact for quotes, local pickup also available. Discounts available for multiple purchases. Contact 0422 8 three nine (triple 8) or PM for enquiries.

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Price drop +

NISMO R34 GTR/GTT smoked front indicators - Brand new in box, never installed. 140$

1. ARC FMIC + Piping for sale. To suit R33 or R34 GTST/GTT (I think it's a different model for the GTRs). Bought the FMIC without piping, then bought piping off another member here. The piping is black because it has been coated with heat-dispersant paint. Comes with original ARC hose joiners.. Note: pictures show there are a couple of squashed fins in a row, FMIC arrived like this, I don't think it affects performance and wouldn't be too hard to fix. FMIC still works perfectly. Selling car so don't need this anymore. This is a piece of history, ARC before they closed down and became ARC Brazing. Price: 500$ ONO. Pics: https://www.dropbox....v1WD0M9MWxs7n1a

2. White face BF Defi gauges + Link Unit I [ONLY] - no sensors. Water temp, oil pressure, oil temp, boost. Bought when I was in Japan, they come in a custom made carbon gauge cluster. Price: $350 ONO, don't ask to separate. Video here https://www.dropbox....h/VIDEO0068.mp4

3. Red RAYS ENGINEERING valve caps, aluminium. Price: $20 + $3 postage. Pics https://www.dropbox....h0/IMAG2801.jpg

4. Apexi pen-style turbo timer, black. Purchased second hand but then realised didn't need it. Bought from another member here on SAU. Very good condition, comes with all wiring and sensors, very little/no markings in the screen. Price: $40 + $5 postage. Pics https://www.dropbox....h0/IMAG2801.jpg

  • 1 month later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • If true then....wierd. That's a very high base fuel pressure for a shitty old early 2000s Nissan.
    • I may have my math slightly wrong, I'm not double checking that again, but the factory spec for fuel pressure is to set it with the engine IDLING (in vacuum). That spec is 51PSi while idling. So now add +10psi for atmospheric, and +7 for 7psi of boost, and we need 68psi of fuel pressure at full noise, and 51psi idling. That's according to the FSM I found last night for M35. So MINIMUM fuel pressure should be 51psi and it climbs from there.
    • Provided that what you see makes sense and is not "linear" between, say 1.9 and 2.1 volts and that's the whole range you get. You still need it to be doing one end of the 0-5v range at one end of travel, and the other end of the 0-5v range at WOT.
    • So just calibrate whatever voltage the closed position and full throttle position is and check linearity ? Sounds good to me 
    • go look at the live data, and slowly open and close the throttle, if it is moving in a linear fashion, just do a re-calibration. OR if you really want to, adjust the TPS position so it's under 1V (no need to be bang on a 0,45V, it's not a stock ECU), then recal. Job done, rip skids, post it here.
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