Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bar fits completely fine.

Purchased it brand new from Nissan with a brand new N1 reo to go with it.

Fitted it all up with no issues whatsoever, other than the usual 12mm overhang on the guard area which honestly doesn't bother me.

The reason for the purchase in the first place was due to my other bar being damaged from the driver's side headlight area being hit lightly, resulting in a smashed headlight and cracked bumper. The reo was also damaged heavily in the process.

Here's a photo of the passenger side which fits near perfectly and it looks like it's meant for the car out of the box.

The driver's side is another story entirely, largely due to what was explained above (I suspect!)

Can anyone give me tips on how I can raise the bar on the driver's side? :\

http://i.imgur.com/Vj1L3TJ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/s3oAT9K.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/cvvgEsg.jpg

Any advice is appreciated.

Have you tried backing off and then adjusting the reo at all? Did the headlight bolt up okay? Rad support isn't a bit out?

I thought the reo could only be adjusted horizontally via elongating the preexisting holes and not vertically?

It bolted up okay-ish, the bracket that is hidden by the indicator where the 2 headlight bolts sit was almost certainly smashed in when the other damage was caused however - I figured this could play a part in it, but needed a second opinion as I believe the issue lies elsewhere.

I'll check the rad support tomorrow - how big of an issue is this, assuming it's the problem? Am I going to need a new one or have to remove my entire front end including rad/horn/misc to fix it? ;_;

Sorry, I didn't intend to raise any alarm bells, it may not be that bad. It might just require a bit of patience to get right. Assuming the bonnet and guards haven't been removed, how are the panel gaps between both sides, pretty equal? It's a bit hard to judge from the photos, but it does appear as though the drivers headlight is sitting 'in' a bit more than the passengers. Try and loosen the all mountings and see if you can't readjust them at all.

It's definitely the bar/reo. I straightened the headlight up because it wasn't properly bolted in when I first installed it but there's still a huge gap.

Here are some more photos for reference.

http://i.imgur.com/7JjGNV7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/haqQWXm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WSS7LVV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SivDe52.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gV3EImg.jpg

Hopefully that gives you a better idea.

Another mate of mine recommended unbolting the Reo on the driver's side and having someone pull it up, then tightening the bolt while they're holding it up slightly - trying that tomorrow!

Edited by Cevzy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...