Jump to content
SAU Community

Cluch alignment

R33vit

By R33vit,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33vit Experienced

R33vit

Posted
Posted

I dont recommend anyone do there own clutch unless you've done them before or really know what your doing... I was going to write up a tutorial on how to change you clutch but it is very involved and difficult for the average person..

If you do wanna do it yourself then here is a tip to re-align the new clutch..

Whilst the gearbox and clutch are out it's best to replace the spigot bush. There cheap as and you dont wanna be pulling a boxes out to replace a $2 part after stuffing about getting the boxes in...

Get your self a piece of 16mm dowel from a hardware store cut a piece around 1 foot long or a little longer.

Fill the spigot with as much grease as you can jam in there and push the dowel into the spigot.. Use a hammer to knock it in there. The grease will have nowhere to go and the spigot will pop out..

Dont toss the old spigot out..

Clean out the grease from the flywheel where the spigot was and replace with a new bush. Use a socket to drift the new bush in taking care not to damage it..

Now when it comes time to align your new clutch we will make up a simple tool to help us out.. Take the old spigot and pass it over the peice of 16mm dowel. It should be a tight fit.

Measure the distance from the end of the input shaft to the teeth, then measure the same distance on the dowel and place the spigot in that position.. Next you will need to tape the spigot with some masking tape until you have enough to take up the clearance so when you pass the clutch plate over the taped up spigot it will fit snugly.

This is you new alignment tool.. After you place the clutch and pressure plate onto the flywheel, bolt up the pressure plate just enough to hold it there.. By passing the clutch alignment tool trough the clutch and into the new spigot in the flywheel this will help bring them into line and make fitting the gearbox a lot easier, with a little less cursing..

Tighten the pressure plate and check around the edge's with you finger to feel if it is a even spacing...

Remember if the 16mm piece of dowel is bent then you will never get the clutch lined up right and you a wasting you time

I hope this helps and if you cant understand any of it drop me a PM, I am happy to help...

Take care

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45145-cluch-alignment/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

I made my own clutch alignment tool as I found the 180b plastic jobbie was a little loose.

I've used them in the past on other cars, its not that it doesn't fit its just the plastic tool isn't perfectly spot on and doesn't stop ALL movement for any car. :)

I used a nice long bolt that is used for bolting bolting pergolas etc together. I then grabbed some fuel line hose that fit over it nice and tight, then grabbed an older heater hose that fit over the fuel line perfectly.

Pictures tell a thousand words.

This tool is so damn tight, so if you make one like it throw a smidge of engine oil on the rubber so it doesn't get stuck.

It holds the clutch extremely tight and centered. There's no movement. Gearbox slid in first pop, had to then pull it back out as I forgot to do the clutch bolts up completely tight. lol

Second time it also went straight in.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45145-cluch-alignment/#findComment-1538849
Share on other sites
TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted

Just adding my 2c. Something to keep in mind here is that they all work ( some better than other's :( ) for a single plate but when you get to installing a twin, triple or quad plate, you really do need a proper input shaft not only to align the plates to the spigot bush, but also to align the splines of each clutch plate to eachother. Now that's fun :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45145-cluch-alignment/#findComment-1541743
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I've done a twinplate using a 180b plastic clutch align tool. It worked well. It did feel a little loose, we simply did the old yep that feels centered and tightened everything up.

I think if I used the tool (pic above) it would have been spot on as it literally does not move.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45145-cluch-alignment/#findComment-1541748
Share on other sites
TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted
I think if I used the tool (pic above) it would have been spot on as it literally does not move.

I don't think I'd like to try my luck installing a twin plate with that tool. It does not align the splines of each clutch plate :)

Best thing to do ( IMO ) is to post in the WTB section asking for a dead gearbox ( with the input shaft still OK ) and you then pull the box apart to retrieve the input shaft ( don't really need to know what you're doing cause who cares, it doesn't have to be re-built ). You will then own the best clutch aligning tool around :( and you can loan it to your mates in exchange for beer !!

Plus one of the BEST things in the world to do is pull something apart and never have to put it back together again :D ( Good education for the novice mechanic ).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45145-cluch-alignment/#findComment-1541833
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yer that is a small problem. :D

The 180b tool doesn't either the teeth are not the exact correct size.

We aligned the splines by eye, got part in then turned the tail shaft to align the second one.

Ensure you have a big screw driver to turn the tail shaft, the clutch plates are rather tight. :(

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45145-cluch-alignment/#findComment-1541870
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...
psi Experienced

psi

Posted
Posted

I've got a special tool for aligning the clutch.

It works EVEY time perfectly!

It is very easy to use.. idiot proof (prolly y ALL my mates borrow it!)lol

Well.. its an input shaft from a R31/VL 5sp manual gearbox. It still has the bearing on it.. but it fits my RB25 and my mates RB20 with no issues. the right tool for the job!

Cost me NOTHING! i just asked my local wrecking yard if they had a busted box.. he said

"you find it.. and pull it out.. and its yours free. If i look its $20"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45145-cluch-alignment/#findComment-3688930
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...