Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid from what i have read from other people that have used this ecu in their auto skylines, they havent had a problem with the ecu except for the gearchange to be a little jerky.

Yep, that's the problem I found in the one (and only one) I have driven. It was a bit annoying in that R33 GTST. But in a Stagea, towing a trailer with an R32 GTST on it, it may well be terrible. I don't know. :confused:

BTW abu, when your manual has done a 9, then you can sling off at R33 autos. Until then :wassup:

Hey MJ let us know when you get it done and how everything went.

The Map I sent you I got from Steve_SST and when I tested it on my GTST everything seemed to work fine other then it wouldn't idle properly. I found that gear changers were a little jerky but only from first to second all the other gears seemed fine.

I haven't got it properly installed as yet so mine just needs some fine tuneing just waiting to get some more parts together and do it all at once.

hey guys strutto and i put the ecu in today and its great. It was pretty damn easy to install, only had to run a vaccum hose from the engine to the ecu (for the map sensor) and then plug the ecu into the loom, after that we loaded the map to the ecu.

At first the car wouldnt idle. So we increased the richness by 15% and it idled great. We tried to lower the richness but the car wouldnt start then. But i have a feeling there is alot of caliberation that is meant to be setup to help with this, as we had trouble setting the air temperature and we didnt set the load caliberation table etc.

The car blows a bit of black smoke when it starts as its getting way too much fuel into it but that only lasts 2-3secs while the car is starting then when it idles it goes away. Im still reading how to over come this, as there are alot of fuel modifiers to play with.

The gears from 1-2 is jerky and then from 2-3 it seems to hold the gear much longer then the stock ecu and sometimes i have to take my foot off the accelerator for it to change to 3rd. I also have to push the accelerator further for it to downshift too. Apparently this can be fixed by running the TPS and Tacho singal from the ecu to the auto ecu. I havent tried this yet as it was getting late.

Performance wise the car runs like a rocket, when i floor it the car is very smooth through the rev range and pulls much harder then before. Im only running stock boost too as i havent sussed out the boost control yet.

So i still have alot to play with but its been great learning how it all works and im sure with more time and playing around with settings ill have those problems sorted. Then it will off to the dyno for a final tune :D

Im just hoping it will start tomorrow morning on a dead cold engine :)

Cheers

Matt

Good work MJ when you can get the $$ together i can't recommend highly enough getting it dynoed!! I just had a Link ECU installed on my auto (running a pod, FMIC, and a 3" exhaust from the turbo back and using the standard boost solenoid) last week. BEST MOD EVA!! I got just under a 40rwkw gain. They used a TPS to control the gear change and is smooth as!! Only drama I’ve got is its a bit more difficult to start takes longer to fire?? Apparently it’s to do with the map sensor i don't know weather you noticed that?

40kw gain id be stoked with that :)

Dyno tune will probably be next week depending how quickly i sort everything out. My car is hard to start now but that can be due to a number of things, the bosch fuel pump needs to be primed before it will start and i have to setup the fuel modifiers correctly. I hope the plugs dont get fouled from the rich starting.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the r33 auto ecu? I need to find out which wires are the TPS and rpm signal

Cheers

Matt

Good work MJ, Mine done the same thing with changing from 2 to 3 and also changing into overdrive a couple of times I had to let my foot of so it would change up, but it did run smother and went well, did you callibrate the TPS?

What MAP did you use?

I used the map steve sent me, the ignition maps were quite a bit different to yours. Have you got ur ecu in the car and completely tuned? So you did fix the gear changing problem by tapping into the TPS wire of the auto ecu?

I havent caliberated the TPS yet, where in the pc software do i do that?

The map I have is the one that Steve_SST sent me it hasn't been changed, I haven't gotten round to getting all done as yet. No I haven't tapped in to the TPS.

I'm not to sure where it is in the PC software I just do it with the Hand controller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...