Jump to content
SAU Community

96 S2 R33 Gts25t Kr4 Silver,manual, 105,389km, Hail Damaged, Suit Track Car, Part Out Etc


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a 1996 KR4 silver R33 Gtst which has been written off in the past due to hail damage. It was since re registered in Victoria by the previous owner. I then bought it to use as a track car but plans have changed due to a change of circumstances.

It would probably be worth more to part out but I don't really have the motivation or engine crane etc to do this.

These photos were taken with the car dirty and at it's worst, I don't want to hide anything from potential buyers. My cat has been walking on it as well as she lives in the shed, but she hasn't been allowed in the interior.

Anyone is welcome to come and perform a compression test and test drive the car in the driveway (rural property) It is unregistered though so I wouldn't be able to let someone take it on the road without a trade plate.

Details:

1996 Series 2 Gts25t

105,xxx kms

Complied

Economic write off against VINs

*Comes without front seats or front brake calipers, may put s14 calipers on though for ease of transportation*

Good points/mods

Motor runs well, nice and quiet, drove it back from Victoria, didn't miss a beat.
Gearbox is great, goes into gears easily, no syncro issues.
Exedy single plate clutch
Splitfire coilpacks
Custom front mount intercooler painted black and stainless piping
Custom turbo back exhaust
Advan tri spoke 17" wheels (ordinary offsets)
Nismo front strut brace
Master cylinder stopper (cheap brand but does the job)

GKtech ABS delete kit fitted (all factory brake lines in the boot along with ABS module)

Schroth tow strap

Most bushes look to have been replaced with Whiteline yellow urethane type

Alpine head unit, rear speakers and amp

Just did a service (timing belt was still original) which included the following
Brand new gates water pump fitted 0km ago
Brand new gates timing belt fitted 0km ago
Brand new japanese idler and tensioner pulleys fitted 0km ago
Brand new genuine rocker cover seals fitted 0km ago
Brand new genuine nissan crank and cam seals fitted 0km ago
Freshly rebuilt brake master cylinder
Brand new genuine nissan pcv hose
Brand new leather gear and hand brake boots with black stitch

Pictures shown of old seals, old rocker cover gaskets, old timing belt and tensioner, idler etc. I do have photos on my phone somewhere of when I was in the process of fitting the new water pump, idlers, seals, belt etc which I will try and upload later.

Bad points

Hail damaged body + paint is a bit ordinary in spots
Pushed out dint in rear right quarter where someone had kicked it
Guards flared roughly with jack handle and have light surface rust where the paint has flaked off
SkylinesAustralia stenciled across bonnet by previous owner
Boot leaks water in somewhere, boot floor has a bit of light surface rust from where water has been sitting

Temp gauge in cluster doesn't work accurately, have swapped with a GTR cluster I had sitting around to test engine temps and it read within normal range

Rear brake pads are low but still work

Dash has a few marks where double sided tape has been on there by the looks of it and also the radio surround, cluster surround plastic trim has some damage as in pics

**Comes without front seats, or front brake calipers or lines although I have a pair of s14 turbo front calipers and rotors I may fit just to make it easier for people to move without relying only on handbrake.**

These can be left on/in the car for someone to drive around driveway and check engine/ gearbox for themselves/ drivers seat can be left in to load the car onto a trailer if required.

Price: Asking $3000 although I am negotiable, don't hesitate to throw me an offer if you think this is unreasonable or too high.

Location: Sunshine Coast QLD (Cooroy Area)

Contact Details: 0420 856 four6four (Jamie)

post-2140-0-45229000-1424229441_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-05538500-1424229569_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-60032300-1424229691_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-56201600-1424229802_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-94933400-1424229918_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-64158600-1424230034_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-62600700-1424230162_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-85267300-1424230300_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-58115800-1424230431_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-68273500-1424230638_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-11957900-1424230766_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-58130400-1424230958_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-95800600-1424231078_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-37394600-1424231207_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-74596600-1424231323_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-82356000-1424231423_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-91165100-1424231530_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-36741500-1424231657_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-92945300-1424231783_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-82582000-1424231889_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-51521800-1424231992_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-02346700-1424232104_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-96103500-1424232218_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-85447000-1424232355_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-97109500-1424232489_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-15578600-1424232598_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-30197300-1424232720_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-78492700-1424232909_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-00610400-1424233107_thumb.jpg

post-2140-0-38124700-1424233252_thumb.jpg

Price drop!!

$2500 byo battery.

I found some pics of when I was doing the timing belt kit, water pump and seals. No shots of the rocker cover gaskets or cam seals but they were done at the same time and I do have receipts for the parts.

The first time I did the crank seal I used a non genuine seal and it leaked so I have replaced it with a genuine Nissan seal which has fixed the problem. The engine has no leaks whatsoever now.

IMAG0663.jpg

IMAG0903.jpg



  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...