Jump to content
SAU Community

Scared Of A Sound Coming From My Rb25det Head.

Inline6Silvia
 Share

Recommended Posts

Inline6Silvia Newbie

Inline6Silvia

Posted
Posted

The car starts up fine but the sound coming from the head is super unnverving. I'm wondering if I have a bent valve or something. I pulled the covers and I saw no sludge or anything. The oil is super clean (I changed it last summer and put 20 miles max on the car. it hardly gets driven). I know its tough to gauge what could be wrong with the vehicle based on sound but here is a video of the noise. Remember this noise is speed dependent.

https://youtu.be/HWnxb16Bfr4

What would my next course of action be? Would a compression test tell me if I have a bent valve or anything? She starts and idles fine and drives fine although the only driving I do is from the end of my driveway back into my garage. Took the valve covers off to see if I saw anything irregular such as sludge or anything but everything is super clean. Like I said since putting this motor together, i've put a maximum of 100 miles on it in 2 years since I finished the car.

I'm from the states but I figure I would ask you guys because you guys see these motors more than we do here in the states. Any info would be much appreciated.

user_online.gifreport.gif

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

Sounds like there's two different noises, one when put under sudden load at 0:05 which sounds like a knocking, that noise ive never heard before, the ticking noises I would bet are the lifters , maybe a few have collapsed and not pumping back up..

What was done to the head/motor when built? are you using big camshafts?

Inline6Silvia Newbie

Inline6Silvia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Brief history of the car. Did fresh internals of the motor. Bottom end was completely worked over. Head is just ported and polished. I put it in the car and life happened and so the car sat more than it was driven. Camshafts are stock. I want my toy back so I am starting to get back into the car. I believe the timing might be a tad off so that could be the knocking you hear. I'm hoping the ticking/knocking is lifters. I plan pulling the lifters this week and seeing if I can clean/revive them. and putting things back together. I also notice that one of the bolts was snapped off the cam angle sensor.

Its been so long since I've worked on the motor that its kind of scaring me to get back into it. Mainly getting the timing right such as getting this at TDC and what not. I've read that I don't want the motor at TDC when I reinstall the cams. It's scary stuff to get in to. The last go around I had someone who knew what he was doing but he has since moved away. It also helped that the motor was out of the car. I'd rather not have to pull the motor if all I am fixing is lifters and timing the motor correctly.

Inline6Silvia Newbie

Inline6Silvia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Does it have good oil pressure and the right viscosity oil?

I've always put 10w30 in it but might oil pressure gauge is a little suspect (it was used). I'll buy a new one right now. 10w30 is the correct oil I should be using correct?

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah my thinking is that when the lifters are held under load and sit for long periods is they get bled and stick in position? so will probably need taken out and soaked then pumped up with fresh oil,

There's heaps of threads on lifter problems on here and someone else might have more advise, but if mine id flush, then new oil, get the engine hot and let run for 20mins and see if the lifter free's up, keeping the revs low to avoid damage, but its your call really.

Edited by AngryRB
Inline6Silvia Newbie

Inline6Silvia

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah my thinking is that when the lifters are held under load and sit for long periods is they get bled and stick in position? so will probably need taken out and soaked then pumped up with fresh oil,

There's heaps of threads on lifter problems on here and someone else might have more advise, but if mine id flush, then new oil, get the engine hot and let run for 20mins and see if the lifter free's up, keeping the revs low to avoid damage, but its your call really.

Yea thats my plan. Ill take the lifters out and work them as best as I can and then reinstall and see where that takes me.

Edited by Inline6Silvia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...