Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

As above i need 20mm, i mean who doesnt, but what i need it for is the rear of a 32 gtst

The only over fenders i can find offering 20mm is Dmax and Origin.

Has anyone had any experiences with them? How was fitment out the box?

Is there any other options?

And best places to get some from??

Cheers

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460394-i-need-20mm/
Share on other sites

Mine pulled this much

2012-03-10_09-22-35_99.jpg

2012-03-12_12-39-32_871.jpg

Nearly there

2012-03-12_12-43-40_649.jpg

Using this method (guards lips already flattened):

Shamelessly stolen from the 300 forum. I used this to get my rears to fit and it works a treat!

First of all, you're going to want to jack up the rear by the tow hook, and remove he rear wheel. The you're going to want to disconnect the lower mount of the rear shock.
2011-09-08_21-04-39_179.jpg

Remove the nut and bolt, and swing the lower mount out of the way.
2011-09-08_21-05-01_813.jpg
2011-09-08_21-05-12_673.jpg

Make sure the lower mount is clear of everything. You do not want it to catch on anything.

With the car in the air, and the wheel at full droop, this is what it looks like:
2011-09-08_21-07-01_7.jpg
Not too bad, but remember it will camber in a bit, like so:
2011-09-08_21-09-35_748.jpg
The fender just catches the tire, so rubbing will occur.

Next, you're going to want to heat up the fender, from where I'm point at, and to the right. Use either a heat gun, or if you're brave, a propane torch, lol
2011-09-08_21-07-23_731.jpg

You want to hit the fender from the bottom and up, to heat up the lip of the fender on both sides.
2011-09-08_21-07-57_624.jpg

Next, grab about less than a thumb's width of newspaper for the initial treatment.
2011-09-08_21-09-18_240.jpg
Again, I'm using mechanic's paper floor mats. It works just as well.

With the fender heated, stuff the newspaper into the wheel arch, between the fender and tire. Make sure to have the newspaper span the whole area you heated up, or else you'll pull one section more than the other.
2011-09-08_21-10-09_127.jpg

Then you're going to drop the car slowly, until the tire touches the floor, and the wheel begins to tuck itself inside the fender.
2011-09-08_21-10-26_708.jpg

Now, it will make some noise it is just the sound of the fender sliding over the newspaper. Let it sit for couple of minutes, to give the fender time to cool off and take shape. You're going to want to then raise the car and remove the paper. Drop it back down to where you're tucking tire, like so:
2011-09-08_21-11-48_615.jpg

You're going to want to check for rubbing issues. What I do is take some thin paper, and slide it between the tire and fender:
2011-09-08_21-12-10_552.jpg
2011-09-08_21-12-16_224.jpg

If the paper snags, then you still need to pull more. The tire was touching the fender in the area between where the paper is placers in the two pics.
Again, heat up the fender, and grab more paper.
2011-09-08_21-12-56_607.jpg

Rinse and repeat as needed.
2011-09-08_21-14-52_349.jpg

You can see the fender slowly taking a flat flared look
2011-09-08_21-15-08_905.jpg

Just as a warning, the driver side fender will require more effort to pull, due to the gas cap there reinforcing the fender. So don't freak out if you need significantly more newspaper on the driver side than on the passenger side.

Keep repeating the process by adding a slight amount more newspaper at every pass. My passenger side took 2 passes. Driver side took 4. Again, this is normal. And here are the results:
2011-09-08_22-01-35_565.jpg
2011-09-08_22-19-51_204.jpg
2011-09-08_22-19-58_166.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460394-i-need-20mm/#findComment-7622087
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...