Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so I rear ended someone who stopped suddenly the other day (my fault) and I'm currently going through the shit fight of dealing with Just Car Insurance.
I'm just wondering if anyone has any advice on what I should be careful with to ensure everything gets fixed. I hit the other car straight on. Cosmetically it doesn't look too bad but after driving it there was a noticeable shudder (any thoughts on what this could be?) , the radiator or something is busted (cause it was steaming), there was a crack in the "glass-fibre composite" material behind the FMIC. Any other thoughts on what else could be broken (I couldn't get the bonnet open to assess the damage myself)
Also, anyone have any experience dealing with insurance claims on these things? I can't even begin to work out how the insurance company is gonna go trying to get part numbers etc for it haha.

Not your problem.

Insurance company doesn't look up part numbers. Repairer does.

When talking to insurance make sure you stipulate all faults including what you feel is mechanical.

After they assess you go and get some quotes from some reputable workshops that know imports.

There should be no "headache" you are at fault you pay excess you get fixed.

Just Car is attached to AAMI (underwritten by a bigger group including APIA, Aust Alliance and Shannon's too I think).

But the above pair according to the PDS will probably want you to take your car to a AAMI depot where it can be assessed and offered to their own "approved repairer".

If things haven't changed in recent years, you might wish to take your car to your own favoured repairer who is also AAMI approved and will send in a quote. AAMI might still wish for the car to be taken in if drivable. If the panelbeater of yours can persuade an assessor to come out and organise another AAMI approved repairer to do a quote as well, AAMI (if you're lucky), might approve your repairer to do the job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...