Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noticed yesterday that my tail lights don't work anymore.

If I brake, it works fine but having the lights on, just the headlights will work.

Thought I may have blown a fuse while installing the new head unit.

Checked the fuses next to the accelerator pedal and they are all good.

Is the fuse for lights in another fuse box?

Has anyone had this problem before ? Couldn't find anything here or on m35stagea forum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461325-tail-parking-lights-not-working/
Share on other sites

Just checked all fuses there and they are all good.

Checked the side tail lights and lamps are not blown either. Not sure which taillights are on actually when you turn them on but I think it is the same as the brake light.

What's weird is that my brake lights work fine.

uyiQQmd.jpg

Gonna check the tail light block with my multimeter to see if I get current there at least which I doubt

Edit: Checked, no juice and blew the brake light fuse to be able to locate it. It's near that accelerator pedal.

Edit2 : found this on the forum and can't see the lights fuses in this so there is still hope :)

post-69799-1267241477.jpg

Edited by valf

As I was looking for the bung under the battery, I removed more pieces of the car and found the 3rd fuse box just above the drain bung and the blown fuse too ! :)

So the story is that my new head unit I installed was blowing my tail lights fuse. The harness I got is probably not the good one (even though the HU works perfectly)

After blowing a couple more fuses, I unplugged the heat unit ... (removing the fascia for the 3rd time .. sigh) and fuse didn't blow up anymore.

Here is a picture of the fuse cover in the top right of the engine bay

cvXcgUT.jpg

Seen from an other topic after a long search

DONT NOT GROUND THE RED/BLUE WIRE!!!! it is actually the cabin lights/parkers/tail lights!!!

This! Exactly what I did, blew the fuse

Got music now :) Everything is working again

  • 5 years later...
On 11/28/2015 at 9:47 PM, valf said:

As I was looking for the bung under the battery, I removed more pieces of the car and found the 3rd fuse box just above the drain bung and the blown fuse too ! :)

So the story is that my new head unit I installed was blowing my tail lights fuse. The harness I got is probably not the good one (even though the HU works perfectly)

After blowing a couple more fuses, I unplugged the heat unit ... (removing the fascia for the 3rd time .. sigh) and fuse didn't blow up anymore.

Here is a picture of the fuse cover in the top right of the engine bay

http://i.imgur.com/cvXcgUT.jpg

Churr bro need help as my Nissan stagea is doing the same thing were bouts did u find the fuse box bro 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...