Jump to content
SAU Community

Battery Drain Rear Tail Lights

alexboland
 Share

Recommended Posts

alexboland Explorer

alexboland

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

So today i was trying to find out what was draining the battery in my car. Set up the multimeter and turns out it was some dodgy wiring of the tail lights. When i connected the multimeter to the battery terminal about 10 seconds later it went from showing 96 ma to 6 ma. Does this mean the multimeter somehow completes the circuit and there is a loose connection or wire somewhere? If anyone has any answers id be very grateful cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462624-battery-drain-rear-tail-lights/
Share on other sites
alexboland Explorer

alexboland

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ah I see. Thanks for your help mate. Im just trying to fix this problem myself since auto electricians are quite pricy.So do you think it could be dodge wiring or the immobilizer/alarm thats draining the battery?

Dark26 Community Regular

Dark26

Posted
Posted

What made you think it was the tail lights in the first place? At 9mA you shouldn't have anything to worry about. I believe it's when you go over 50mA that you have a problem (Google that though to be sure). Since the immobiliser is active and is also waiting for a signal from your remote, it does have to drain some power obviously, but it should be very little. If you are having battery draining issues, maybe look elsewhere. When you have the engine running, what voltage are you getting from the battery? You might be having some charging issues instead.

alexboland Explorer

alexboland

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The battery charges fine and there isnt an immobilizer or alarm in the r33. The battery charges fine when i drive the car for awhile. The reason i believe it to the be the tail lights is that when i pulled the fuse for the tail lights the amps draw went from 96ma to about 6 ma

Dark26 Community Regular

Dark26

Posted
Posted

Alright your first post sounds a bit wrong then. I thought it was you connect the multimeter, it starts out at 96mA, after 10 seconds it goes down to 6 mA by itself. But if this only happens when you remove the fuse for the tail lights as you just said above, then yeah there's something on that circuit causing it. There could be some wires that are damaged or maybe if someone has messed around back there with the wiring and hasn't done it properly. When it's showing 96mA, do you see any lights on at all? Electrical issues are fun to find..... Can start by checking out the wiring to the rear lights and see if you can find anything obvious. If you can get a wiring diagram then you can see what else is on the circuit that could be causing it.

alexboland Explorer

alexboland

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah sorry i should have mentioned that. There are no lights on when its at 96 ma and ive checked some of the wiring round the back seems ok. I think the previous owner stuffed around with them so thats probably where the issue lies. Also i think the battery drains faster when the amp is connected but ive disconnected that for the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...