Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Carrillo Pro H Rods with CARR bolts

Possibly the best rods you can buy before going titanium. 
These are the Carrillo's Pro H, H beam rods with upgraded Carr bolts (leagues ahead of the ARP variant). 
Carrillo rates these at 275hp per rod!!!
Made in the USA. ALl info can be found here:
http://www.cp-carrillo.com/pt-3508-rods.html
Price is $1700 posted AUS wide.
To suit standard stroke RB26
Thanks

FB_IMG_1501989471442.jpg

FB_IMG_1501989474775.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471522-rb26-parts/
Share on other sites

Brand New Nismo Oil Pump

Selling a genuine Nismo (not N1) oil pump. 
It's brand new never installed and comes with original packaging. 
These pumps differ from N1 as they come with strengthened oil pump gears so will not break.
Price is 950$ delivered aus wide.
Thanks

FB_IMG_1501989774517.jpg

FB_IMG_1501989777335.jpg

FB_IMG_1501989780468.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471522-rb26-parts/#findComment-7843160
Share on other sites

Sard Stack Display R32 GTR and GTST

Selling my brand new Sard Stack Display Meter to suit R32 GTR and GTST
It comes with the optional lap timer beacon and infrared receiver so that the display can read put lap times at any circuit.
Comes with mil spec wiring loom, analogue to digital speedo conversion, solid state sensors for fuel pressure, oil pressure, water temperature and oil temperature. Carbon fibre composite case and carbon fibre housing which firs perfectly without modification.
More info can be found here:
http://www.stackltd.com/st8100.html
RHDJapan pricing without lap timing kit, shipping and taxes:
https://www.rhdjapan.com/sard-stack-meter-st8100.html

asking for 2000$ono delivered Aus wide.
Thanks 

20170806_110839.jpg

20170806_110832.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471522-rb26-parts/#findComment-7843166
Share on other sites

ACL Race Series Rod and Main Bearings

Up for sale is a full set of ACL Race Series engine bearings to suit rb26.

They are brand new still sealed in original packaging as shown in pics.  

All bearings are in standard sizing.

Asking for 300$ posted aus wide. 

Thanks

20170806_121558.jpg

20170806_121611.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471522-rb26-parts/#findComment-7843237
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...