Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi car people. I was lucky enough to buy my Grandfather's 85 ti R30 hatchback. It has been sitting in a shed for years wrapped up in blankets. It is in Amazing condition inside and out. I have been slowly fixing little things and cleaning it.

I need to buy a drivers side headlight protector, the long front mudflats and a manual gear stick cover, mine has a rip in it from reverse. Dose anyone know where I may be Abel to get these parts. With these parts the car will be floorless except for the small patch on the passenger floor, you know.

Not sure what to do with it once its back no the road? I know its rare, manual with all electrics. Is it worth keeping? Making it a show car? Is there any money that could be made? Cheers Dougy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473949-r30-hatchback/
Share on other sites

Congrats on getting a nice car with family history, etc etc.  But, mid-80s Nissans are nothing to get carried away about, either as collector's items or show cars.  You will be the belle of the ball at the Nissan Wierd Beards' annual meeting, but that's about it.  None of them have more than $2.50 to spend on a car, so will expect to get yours and your stock of new-old stock spares for $1.25.

The car is so old that getting odd body/trim/internal cosmetic parts for it will likely be a ball ache.  Headlight protector?  You talking about some aftermarket thing put on by old people?  If so, piss off the other one and live happy.  Mud flaps.....?  The likelihood of ever seeing one that was specifically manufactured to suit that car is going to be zero.  The manufacturers gave up on mid 80s cars about 20 years ago!  Gear shift boot?  You could try Nissan direct.  Other than that you are looking at Amayama or the various other stockists of old new-old spares.  If it were me, I would take it off and give it to a motor trimmer to reproduce.  Take an afternoon at most.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473949-r30-hatchback/#findComment-7874694
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...