Jump to content
SAU Community

Sound cutting out

Sl!m

By Sl!m,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sl!m Grand Master

Sl!m

Posted
Posted

Just installed my mates system for him, sub 6x9's and head unit. Didnt notice it before I put the amp and sub in but when we took it for a "fully sik test cruise" every 10 seconds or so the sound cuts out for a split second, the song keeps going but just for the split second there is nothing, no idea what could be causing it ... I would give you specs of the system but all I know is he has my old JBL GTO400 600watt amp and a 12 inch Pioneer sub. dont remember the model of the deck or anything, so anyone shed some light on this for me

cheers

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47611-sound-cutting-out/
Share on other sites
martydaman Mentor

martydaman

Posted
Posted

12 inch pioneer amp??? lol

Whats the rating for the sub?? maybe your amp is playing up on ya... might be cutting out coz of hign voltage or bad signal...

The problem is most likely the amp im guessing. Are all the speakers cutting out or just the sub??

If it is all then the amp is your culprit. I suggest temporarily fitting another amp to test and see...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47611-sound-cutting-out/#findComment-972031
Share on other sites
Sl!m Grand Master

Sl!m

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just had to give back my 1200 w S amp :) so im also looking for another one.. so I have no bass in the car.. and the amp my mate is iusing he bought off me about a week before I had to get rid of my good one, so I wasnt to happy about that one :D

but oh well...

looks liek i need to go shopping :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47611-sound-cutting-out/#findComment-972051
Share on other sites
someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

If all the speakers are hooked up to the amp try to plug some directly into the HU.

If all speakers/woofers cut out-

Check all the wires to each speaker/driver. If they short it will cut-out from the HU.

If it's just speakers connected to the amp that cut out-

Make sure your groundwire isn't jumping around and it's in securely attached. Also make sure it's the same guage as your power cable.

Make sure your 'remote" (usually blue) is connected properly and getting current. If it's falling out or jumping around your amp might be being told the HU is off.

Also - if your HU lights cut out (ie. the power to your HU cuts out as well) then you may not have enough current to your HU in which case it's the incorrect power cable you're hooked into or ground wire is lose.

Other than that if all your speakers are hooked up to the amp and you can't be bothered hooking up some speakers to the HU I would put the amp in the car where you can keep an eye on the light and see if it's cutting out.

Hope that helps. Let us know how it goes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47611-sound-cutting-out/#findComment-972218
Share on other sites
someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

Well if only the sub is hooked up to the amp and yet all other speakers (I'm assuming they'd be then hooked up to the HU) are cutting out then theres no reason to think it's the sub thats busted.

If all the speakers cut out, but the sub stays on (even though the driver cuts out) AND the head unit stays on I'd find that quite strange.

I would say it's quite strange if the HU stays on but doesn't produce any output. I wonder if it's possible the current is dropping enough for the HU to be unable to produce output but not enough for it to turn off. I've never seen that happen and don't know if it's possible. When your mate gets back see if it happens above a certain volume. This might give you a clue to this fact.

Good luck - let us know how it goes slash when he gets back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47611-sound-cutting-out/#findComment-972683
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...