Jump to content
SAU Community

NISMO PARTS !!

sevan34
 Share

Recommended Posts

sevan34 Collaborator

sevan34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nismo twin plate comp with up rated direct plate friction plates and up rated bolts good for 1000hp. Very nice to drive with. Under 1000km old. $1200 

Nismo solid shift shifter used for a drive down the street very nice shift makes a big difference on shift feel. $200.

Reason for sale on both items is went automatic.
Located in campbellfield, Vic

20190326_191822.jpg

20190326_185510.jpg

Edited by sevan34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476467-nismo-parts/
Share on other sites
R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted
Quote

Nismo twin plate comp with up rated direct plate friction plates and up rated bolts good for 1000hp. Very nice to drive with. Under 1000km old. $1200 

so is it using the comp spec plates now or something other than nismo, as even comp spec is not rated to 1000hp?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476467-nismo-parts/#findComment-7901523
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...