Jump to content
SAU Community

heading to the drags - looking for tips, including not breaking anything

mikel
 Share

Recommended Posts

mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Last time I took my R33 GTST to the drags was 12 years ago - back then I did 5 runs, snuck into 13s on the last run (13.94 @ 106MPH) and was happy with that and drove home.

I'm heading out tomorrow to Willowbank with some mates for a bit of fun and looking for tips - including reducing the risk of breakages and being able to drive home ?.

Mods - Power FC, FMIC, oil cooler, boost controller, HKS2530 turbo, NPC organic single plate clutch without many km on it + NPC lightened flywheel.

Stock manual gearbox and diff, cheap street tyres (Achilles) with plenty of tread, 245x45x18.

Dynoed at 234 RWKW on PULP 98

Fresh oil, brakes pads/rotors/fluid are in good nick

I've read a bunch of posts in this forum that include advice such as:

  • remove extra weight (in my case that would only be the spare wheel, jack etc
  • have 1/2 tank fuel, not full
  • lower the rear tyre pressure (I'll have a pump to re-inflate). 

My old 2530 turbo is a bit laggy, so I know that I'll have to slip the clutch to get the old girl off the line.

The other guys I'm going with will likely be in high 12s/low 13s (chipped BMW M2 and C43 Merc - both autos), so there'll be a temptation to push things a bit - and I'm seeking guidance on getting reasonable ETs while minimising the risk of breakages (and I accept there's always a risk I'll break something)

I have questions such as:

  • what sort of revs do you try to leave the start line at?
  • is there any point in doing a burn out on street tyres? I would assume some benefit is gained from a warm tyre compared to cold?
  • depending on the number of people running - especially at the start of the session - there may be opportunities to do back to back runs with minimal time between - if oil and water temps are fine, do I just line up again, or should I give the clutch some time to cool down?
  • The car doesn't get driven much - I've got 1/2 tank of P98 but it's 2 months old - should I throw in a bottle of octane booster?
  • any other tips on getting good ETs in a manual Skyline with minor mods?

It will be a fun night - beating the BMW or the Merc is unlikely, but if I cut a better reaction time and get a good launch I may beat them over the line even with a slower ET....that's the stretch target...

Getting an ET around 13.5s (or better) and driving home after is the primary target ?

cheers

Mike

 

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

4-4.5k rpm

Burnouts are fun, don't do a big one, run your tyre pressure at about 25 psi and see how that goes

If your temps are fine go for it

Sure, why not

Practice, don't worry about racing the guy in the next lane, stage, grab your handbrake, wait for the green, bring the revs up to "whatever", launch hard and punish the clutch a bit, don't hit the limiter, stay in your lane, don't back off till you pass the line.

Profit

Have fun, play with tyre pressures, do some skids

Disclaimer: street tyres are shit

mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, mlr said:

4-4.5k rpm

Burnouts are fun, don't do a big one, run your tyre pressure at about 25 psi and see how that goes

If your temps are fine go for it

Sure, why not

Practice, don't worry about racing the guy in the next lane, stage, grab your handbrake, wait for the green, bring the revs up to "whatever", launch hard and punish the clutch a bit, don't hit the limiter, stay in your lane, don't back off till you pass the line.

Profit

Have fun, play with tyre pressures, do some skids

Disclaimer: street tyres are shit

nice...so get some runs up prior to running against any of "the guys in the crew" to begin to learn how to launch - and have fun.

Great post - cheers

Mike

mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well I had fun, but my times were shite - my mate in his BMW M2 ran a 12.9 while I was still waiting in the lanes - I knew I couldn't touch that.

My best time was 14.4 @ 104mph - a lot slower than the 13.94 I ran 12 years ago :(

And 14.4 was my first run...later runs where I thought my start was better were slower.:(:(

The only redeeming part of the night was beating a WRX STi

I'd completely forgotten how much is going on when trying to get off the line fast in a manual and how different it is with a helmet on...

...and later runs where I didn't try for a good reaction time, but tried for a better launch and riding the clutch more to not bog down were slower - likely I was frying the tyres and the clutch at the same time ...

Disappointed I couldn't get close to the time I ran 12 years ago - the car feels faster and the power comes on harder but I am running less rubber - 12 years ago I was running 265x35x18, now they're 245x45x18...I might have to try some drag radials.

cheers

Mike

 

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted
On 27/05/2019 at 8:17 PM, mikel said:

well I had fun, but my times were shite - my mate in his BMW M2 ran a 12.9 while I was still waiting in the lanes - I knew I couldn't touch that.

My best time was 14.4 @ 104mph - a lot slower than the 13.94 I ran 12 years ago :(

And 14.4 was my first run...later runs where I thought my start was better were slower.:(:(

The only redeeming part of the night was beating a WRX STi

I'd completely forgotten how much is going on when trying to get off the line fast in a manual and how different it is with a helmet on...

...and later runs where I didn't try for a good reaction time, but tried for a better launch and riding the clutch more to not bog down were slower - likely I was frying the tyres and the clutch at the same time ...

Disappointed I couldn't get close to the time I ran 12 years ago - the car feels faster and the power comes on harder but I am running less rubber - 12 years ago I was running 265x35x18, now they're 245x45x18...I might have to try some drag radials.

cheers

Mike

 

 

Post a slip or two.

Did you play with your pressures.

Those tyres are shit though.

Was 104 mph the best, what weight is your car?

 

If your around 1550kg with your 104 mph you are around 220kw and 13.6 ish.

Service car, get some better tyres and go again, but, 13.5 is about it I'm a guessing.

 

Currently my NA 2.0 86 is 0.1 sec quicker than your turbo 2.5.

mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

car is full weight R33 GTST coupe

timeslips attached

1419366232_timeslips2-25May19.thumb.PNG.133f013235cf4e099b3f92e53726816c.PNG

1564521959_timeslips25May19.thumb.PNG.2af0fe17651a6f64a2ad0e87d1865b08.PNG

 

I dropped pressure to 25 psi at the start before any runs, but didn't muck from there

17 hours ago, mlr said:

Currently my NA 2.0 86 is 0.1 sec quicker than your turbo 2.5.

oh dear :(

cheers

Mike

 

Edited by mikel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • joshuaho96
      Coolant leak?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...