Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I asked this question awhile ago but never got a straight answer so thought I'd ask again.

I have a SAFC thats allready tuned on my R33, suppose I was to reset my ECU (i.e. unplug the battery and bleed the electrical system).

When I start my car again the ECU does a few diagnostics of some kind right?

Is this affected by my SAFC settings?

Hey Guys

I asked this question awhile ago but never got a straight answer so thought I'd ask again.

I have a SAFC thats allready tuned on my R33,  suppose I was to reset my ECU (i.e. unplug the battery and bleed the electrical system).  

When I start my car again the ECU does a few diagnostics of some kind right?  

Is this affected by my SAFC settings?

Hows it going

I was thinking about getting an S-AFC II, but the thing is I havent got a full exhaust, cat back only, a Hybrid 800 x 600 Front Mount Intercooler and a Turbosmart Bleed Valve, I was wandering if you recommend finishing off my exhaust system (dump pipe and hi flow cat) or getting the SAFC-II.

Is there a great amount of difference that the AFC makes?

Another thing, what mods do you have on your car since you have an AFC.

Thank you

thx INASNT I guess I am worrying about nothing, just wanted to make sure

DezertEagle, honestly I think if you're planning to keep standard turbo and/or ECU then yea the SAFC is worthed. Im still using standard dump though Ive change my front pipe and have a high flow cat.

I bought the SAFC because, due to the high boost and all my mods the ECU was hitting the fuel/boost cut so I wanted a quickfix and the SAFC solved that. If your car is allready experiencing this then I suggest the SAFC first, if not I would finish of the exhaust system and think about where to go after that. Personally I'd like to go full programmable ECU sometime in the near future.

My mods are:

Trust MX cat-back

SS highflow cat

RSR front pipe with stock dump pipe

Apexi filter

TRUST V-SPL intercooler kit

SAFC-II

Greddy Profec B EBC

HKS 256 exhaust cam 8.8mm lift with cam gears

Bosch 910 external pump

malapassi FPR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...