Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a fiber glass Bomex front bar for SWAP only!

Want to swap a FACTORY R34 GTT bar!

This bar is currently on car! so if anyone want to see the bar may organise time with me to meet up by reply msg under or PM! I check everyday after work!

Prefer serious Sydney traders!

The bar is in perfect condition.

Reason for swap: Want to get East Bear front bar lip which will only fit on factory bar!

Picture blow shows the actual bar on car!

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48373-r34-bomex-front-barwith-pic/
Share on other sites

oh yeah just curious, how much is the east bear lip? cheers..

East bear lip will cost around 33,600 Yen in Japan but its currently out of stock!

so i'm going to wait for it or might ask friend to bring a copy from overseas!

let me know if u want to swap!

cheers,

Hey Man! I'd be interested in this! - When can I have a look

btw I assume you'd be respraying the stock bar you get if needed? (mine is white)

I can show you the bar anytime after 5:30! I work in chatswood.. so if u r near then we can meet up or meet somewhere else if u like!

cheers,

East Bear rocks! they make a Very nice R34 GT-R copy bar designed perfectly for the R34 GT-T, went on show at the Tokyo 2004 Auto Salon . . It's a quality kit, including real carbon fibre GT-R bonnet, 3-piece plastic mould injection front bar with spoiler lip and mesh inserts etc.... not cheap though $3600 AU.. but dammnn I want one :P

Looks good! when can i see it? would tonight be good?

Sorry i just got back home from dinner~~ if u want to see the bar tonight! give me a call.. I've PM u my number!

cheers

I don't think u can do that... Never seen or heard

Anything is possible... but the amount of cutting and modification required to the bar would make it rather expensive... but if u REALLY wanted, it can be done :) I've seen a Trial S15 front bar cut n shut to fit a honda civic!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...