Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had a veilside front bar in the past (on a silvia though) and found that once I lowerd the car it was far too low. Even with 17 inch rims, I found myself hitting every thing. But I guess if your into DIY fixing front bars then go for it...

Also while looking for my bar, I came across some real nasty one's. As with any kit, have a good look around, I payed top dollar for the one I bought, and even that needed hours of work to fit right.

I have one, and I love the look of it but it did take awhile to get used to it. The only prob with them is the fact that they stick out a long way past the stock ones. My car is not lowwered and the bar is a fair way of the ground but it still scraps on everything because the front of it is so far forward of the wheels...

I have one, and I love the look of it but it did take awhile to get used to it. The only prob with them is the fact that they stick out a long way past the stock ones. My car is not lowwered and the bar is a fair way of the ground but it still scraps on everything because the front of it is so far forward of the wheels...

First of all, P1E they're not ungly, just looks really eeevil! *in dr evils voice*. yea any how GunMetalR33 ur ride looks schmik, can you still get over the average shopping centre speed humps, i doubt u can if its lowered right. And that doesn't scrap the bottom of a steep road does it?

cheers mate.

oh yea adding a side skirt will make ur ride even fatter. :wassup:

The car is at the shop right now getting the skirts put on :)

Back to your question, If you take it easy you should be right on most things. My driveways is steep into my garage and i need wood ramps to get it in. But on the road and in car parks you should have no probs.

First of all, P1E they're not ungly, just looks really eeevil! *in dr evils voice*. :

in dr evils voice: how bout no ya crazy dutch bastard? :aroused:

i generally like Veilside gear, but the R33 front in my oppinion is UGLY.

love the veilside rear bar though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...