Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello I'm a new member wanting to purchase an apexi pfc among other things. Does anyone know the differences between the jetro and race versions? I saw both these on a website but they wrote the same things about them - pretty general. Also I saw someone writing about the A.P engineering versions of them?

I also am interested in getting electronic boost control and am interested in the Apexi one - you can plug it into the computer. Has anyone used on of these?

Thanks - just don't want to buy the wrong thing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49617-apexi-power-fc-etc/
Share on other sites

With the Jetro version you don't have to run an air flow meter (AFM) and their are certain features that are used to make sure your car is safe on the racing versions, eg boost cut, rev limmiter. - they use different types of cuts eg: ignition instead of fuel and so on. If you get what i mean.

We have 4 cars with "standard" Power FC's with boost control kits, 2 X GTR race cars 1 X GTST race car and 1 X R34 GTT road car. They work perfectly, the cars drive "nice" like the standard ECU. There are plenty of threads on this subject, do a search and you will find all the info you need.

Thanks for the replies!

I hadlook on the searches - I'm new to this and they were great.

Sorry - just a couple more q's.

Is it an option on the jetro version to run AFM's as well or do you have to get rid of it straight away? If you can still run AFM's to start with it sounds like the one to get.

Do you recommend using the electronic boost controller with the standard turbo?

I believe it should increase torque as you have quote me if I'm wrong total control of the wastegate?

Thanks again!

Is it an option on the jetro version to run AFM's as well or do you have to get rid of it straight away? If you can still run AFM's to start with it sounds like the one to get.

I honestly don't know, I have never used a DJetro version. All the cars with them I have seen, use map sensors, not AFM's.

Do you recommend using the electronic boost controller with the standard turbo? I believe it should increase torque as you have quote me if I'm wrong total control of the wastegate?

I have used the PFC Boost control kit with all sorts of turbos, singles and twins. It enables you to hold the wastegate shut until you reach the target boost, like other electronic boost controllers and the twin valve manual controllers. So it enables more boost, that means more torque and it will enable the boost to come on as early as the turbo will allow. Does that answer your question?

:D

Yeah thanks! I'm going on nengun to order one now. Doubt if I'll ever go over 300RWKW anyway so I'll just get the 'normal' apexi. But then again it's so easy to get use to power! I'm in the UK at the moment studying yacht engineering and won't be home until x-mas, but just purchasing parts for my car in the meantime. Will dyno the car the month I'm home - can't wait! Obviously I'm quite a distance away from any tuners for advise! I didn't realise there was different types of Apexis until I seriously started looking for one. Anyway, thanks again for the help and advise!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...