Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:headspin: 1994 GTST Skyline

HKS T51R SPL turbo

Custom Tubular stainless manifold

HKS Wastegate

Apexi AVCR Boost Controller

Microtech LT12s

Large FMI

Bilstein Suspension

HKS Springs

3.5in mandrel exhaust

17" Alloy Wheels

New Tyres

Custom Plenum

650cc Injectors

600hp Clutch (new) and lightened billet flywheel

Bosch 044 fuel pump and surge tank

Alpine stereo (amps, speakers, subs etc)

Forged oversized Pistons

Forged RB26 I-Beam rods

Tomei 1.8mm metal head gasket

Replaced all gaskets

Machined Crank

New bottom end and conrod bearings

plus more! Reason for sale - just finished putting the engine back together (forgie's etc) and found that it has cost too much money

Price starts at about $50,000, as that has been what I have spent, but realistically according to the market at the moment , asking around the $29,000 mark is quite reasonable

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49717-r33-gtst-large-hks-t51r/
Share on other sites

Interior has been completely colour coded metalic silver and the boost gauge and AVCR controller is on the dash. I f anyone wants pics, i don't have any until after the weekend as the head as to be retensioned for running in procedures, so after the weekend i'll have some pics for whoever wants them.

Update on power as was dyno tuned on the weekend

231rwkw at 15psi on pump fuel and still on base timing. When we increased the timing by 1 degree, the power jumped up by 8kw at the rear. Now modifying the intercooler pipe (inlet side) due to a possible restriction and going up to 20-25psi on Saturday, then tinkering with the timing for ultimate power.

Will be at this years Jamboree, it's white in colour and a HKS sticker on the rear quarter windows, so if any one is interested, please feel free to approach me and ask some questions...... i won't bite!

Reason for sale - just finished putting the engine back together (forgie's etc) and found that it has cost too much money and due to new family additions, something has to go (baby seat in this skyline is not a good idea)

Dude Sell the baby on eBay. This beast soudns way too sweet

Ok, cool

New baby and seat for sale, 7months old, doesn't scream or dirty nappies, user friendly, 6" chrome momo's on stroller with 100shot NOS for up hill dashes to the change room and one owner since new!

At least we all still have a sense of humour amoungst us all!

OK update agian 23psi = 305rwkw, need to send away the microtech to have a 3 bar map sensor upgrade to get more boost, we need 30psi+ to get what I want!!!!!!!! Couldn't go above 23psi due to cheap crap hose clamps boosting off!

And yes it is running down the strip at Jamboree!

before rebuild 13.27 on 7psi, about 180kw! standard cams!

I will have to get the print out and scan it to send you the dyno graph, i will have it at Jamboree if you will be there.

For engine bay pics post your e-mail so I can send them to you.

OK update agian 23psi = 305rwkw, need to send away the microtech to have a 3 bar map sensor upgrade to get more boost, we need 30psi+ to get what I want!!!!!!!! Couldn't go above 23psi due to cheap crap hose clamps boosting off!

And yes it is running down the strip at Jamboree!

That seem rather weak considering how amount of air a t51 must be moving at 23psi. There has to be a restriction somewhere else in ur system causing the low power figures.

What compression is it running now with the 1.8mm head gasket??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...