Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy,

Can i fit a r33 powersteering pump to my r32, and just block off the hicas oil supply and return lines?

Im getting a Tomei hicas lock for the car as well, so dont need to worry about the hicas. Id like to keep all the lines and rear rack in the car incase i want to have the hicas put back at a later date, so is it ok just to block off these oil lines?

My r32 powersteering pump is making noises (not its not run dry or needs bleeding) its more internal whirring bearings....so instead of getting this pump reco'd or a replacement pump, since im removing hicas i tought this might be a better way to go?

cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49754-r33-powersteering-pump-in-a-r32/
Share on other sites

Hi Bl4ck32, They are geared differently (check the pulley sizes), I guess because the R33 pump doesn't have to run the rear rack as well. Be carefull where you disconnect the rear rack plumbing as the power steering cooler runs of the return line from the rear rack solenoids.

Hope that helps

so i can just swap over the pulleys if they are different.

Nope not that simple, you really need to have a look at them side by side.

Where would be a good place to disconnect the rear rack plumbing then?

I removed the complete HICAS system from ours, it weighs heaps. Wait until you pick up one of the solenoids (there are 3 of them). After you have driven the car with no HICAS, you will never want to go back. As for the cooler I plumbed it in on the return line from the power steering rack to the reservoir. It's not under much pressure there. If you put it in before the rack it has to contain the full power steering pressure.

Hope that helps some more :D

Cheers SK.

Gotta figure out what i want to keep on the car then. The Tomei hicas lock uses the std rack, just with shims....easier to scrap the lot and use a lock bar i suppose?

How does this affect the computer? Ive got a PFC, so i dont know if the dash light will come on still. This was one of ther reasons i like the Tomei kit, due to the interceptor module....

Cheers SK.

 

Gotta figure out what i want to keep on the car then. The Tomei hicas lock uses the std rack, just with shims....easier to scrap the lot and use a lock bar i suppose?

 

How does this affect the computer? Ive got a PFC, so i dont know if the dash light will come on still. This was one of ther reasons i like the Tomei kit, due to the interceptor module....

We still have the R32 pump, I have been waiting for it to die but it just keeps on rattling. We use a billet alloy rear rack eliminator made by our race team fabricator. I pulled the globe, no HICAS warning light then. :D

Id just like to keep the rack and all lines there, incase i ever want it back on....ie sell the car or if im defected and need it on to pass inspection.

I suppose im gunna end up rebuilding the rb20 one then install the Tomei HICAS kit. I think that might be the easiest solution.....

you shouldnt need ever need it, if you do just put the rear rack back on with no lines too it for regeny, the 33 pump will bold streight up no probs, havent checked the pully sizes but hopefully i wont have a problem running with the rb20 harmonic balancer.

a complte new rear rack will only cost you $120 and be much more stable, i never had light in my car when i disconnected it all either

ever experienced the steering go stiff at slow speeds even with it disconnected?

My ps pump is stuffed. So keeping in mind i wanna diasble hicas later.....i can :

a) fix the rb20det ps pump on there now, then fit the Tomei lock kit

- or

B) remove the rb20det ps pump, strip hicas system, install r33 ps pump, and plug it up to use the ps cooler still, install a lock bar at rear

Im still running the rb20 harmonic balancer as well Clint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...