Jump to content
SAU Community

Tinting and Regency.

P1E

By P1E,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

P1E Mentor

P1E

Posted
Posted

I am getting my car tinted next week and have a couple of questions.

I know that 75% fronts and 35% rears are legal, but I have heard from a couple of reliable sources that Regency will fail a car for having any tint whatsoever. This doesn't really make any sense, but then again I have heard so many stories about Regency that it doesn't really surprise me. What if I took in a copy of the legislation? Or would that just fire them up?

If I am going to be ****ed over for legal tint, I had might as well go 5% all around. Is darker tint more expensive than lighter tint?

Any advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50710-tinting-and-regency/
Share on other sites
Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

i have tint on my car mate. 35% sides and 32% back if i can remember correctly. There is no difference in price for percentage of tint, the difference is in the quality of tint you choose. I have endurance i think it was and it cost me $300 almost a year ago and is still at that price - my gf got same tint done as me at the same place.

jager Community Regular

jager

Posted
Posted

yep its true been defected for having tint on the passenger and driver side window + at the same time a sticker on the front windscreen in the tint line, sent to regency for this i kicked up a fuss a the local cop station next thing ya know defect sticker off and no regency tour but the sticker and tint came off, next hour sticker back on(wasn't actually defectable) cop ona power trip next time go around the RBT

P1E Mentor

P1E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

:confused:

Have you all been defected and/or ****ed around for having front window tinting? As long as it is 75% or higher, it's legal.

It's all here:

[b]Window Tinting:[/b]



44. (1) Glazing used in a windscreen of a motor vehicle must have a luminous transmittance of at least: 



(a) for a motor vehicle built after 1971—75%; or

(b) for another motor vehicle—70%. 



(2) Windscreen glazing of a motor vehicle must not be coated in a way that reduces its luminous transmittance.



(3) However, subrules (1) and (2) do not apply to the greater of the following areas of a windscreen:



(a) the area above the highest point of the windscreen that is swept by a windscreen wiper;

(b)the upper 10% of the windscreen.



(4) Glazing used in a window or interior partition of a motor vehicle must have a luminous transmittance of at least 70%.



(5) Glazing behind the rear of the driver's seat may be coated to achieve a luminous transmittance of not less than 35%.



(6) Glazing in a side window forward of the rear of the driver's seat may be coated to achieve a luminous transmittance of not less than 70% or, if another law of this jurisdiction allows a lesser luminous transmittance, the greater of:



(a) the lesser luminous transmittance allowed under the other law; and

(b) 35%.



(7) Glazing that has been coated to reduce its luminous transmittance must not have a reflectance of over 10%.



(8) The luminous transmittance requirements in subrules (5) and (6) apply to a vehicle instead of the corresponding requirements in the relevant ADR.



(9) In this rule:



"glazing" means material fitted to the front, sides, rear or interior of a vehicle, through which the driver can see the road, but does not include a coating added after manufacture of the material.



"luminous transmittance", for glazing, means the amount of light that can pass through the glazing as a percentage of the amount of light that would be transmitted if the glazing were absent.

P1E Mentor

P1E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's stupid.

Maybe I'll get 20% all over and just remove the driver/passenger tints when I get defected. What does it cost to re-tint just these two windows? Am I right in thinking that Regency don't really check the rear windows?

If Regency ping you for tinting, do they send you home or allow you to rip it off on the spot and still pass?

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

guess the rest of the country must be driving around dangerously.. except for S.A.

as pretty much everywhere i know you can tint any of the windows except the front windscreen ..

why do you have such ****ed laws? why? why?? i thought S.A. was a laid back and easy going place. Why do you have laws that are more strict than anywhere else in the country? :bs!:

MADGT4 Mentor

MADGT4

Posted
Posted

My mate has super tint on his 33, i mean on the back streets at night, like poorly lit street's you can hardly see out em....

Also i don't think regency will let you rip it off on the spot.....

I know plenty of people that have failed from window tint, you well get the big ol fail!

Then another trip back so they get more money and the possibility of a diff instructor so you could get raped again.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

You must also have the little sticker on the window stating its transparency.

Even if the window tint is legal they will make you rip it off without that sticker. (This is what regency recently told me when I went though a big list of what I can and can't do)

Mine doesn't have the sticker.

The only car I've seen have those little stickers is my old mans old 80series Landcruiser and his new Nissan Patrol.

The Landcruiser was tinted from Toyota when they bought it.

The Patrol was tinted by Nissan.

I have approx 35% all round and its perfect.

At night I can see out of it perfectly. No reflections from interior lights etc.

My previous VS commodore was also tinted, for some reason interior lights would reflect and make it difficult to see out.

That tint was lighter than what I have on the line.

I put tint not to look 'cool' but so I don't feel like the sun is ripping apart my face on the drive home from work in peak hour traffic.

Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

Front passanger and driver is defectable that is a fact. My installer emphasised this when i got my tint done but think about it, whats the point of getting window tint only on the back and rear quarters?. I use to wind down my front windows whenever i see the cops but now i dont care and even though ive seen them drive near me a few times, nothing has happened. Touch wood.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...