Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is from a sales website:

The second generation Super AFC follows the highly successful Super AFC in an upgraded package. The Super AFC is a vehicle specific fuel computer that modifies the air flow meter signal/pressure sensor signal and allows the user to either richen or lean the fuel mixture. Adjustment ranges from +/-50%. The Super AFC boasts an 8 point adjustable fuel curve with 500 RPM increment setting points. The Super AFC also allows the user to adjust fuel enrichment according to either LO/HI throttle positions. The AFC also cures the erratic idle problems associated with open atmospheric blow off valves on hit wire air flow meter equipped vehicles. Monitor Mode shows analog meter faces, Y Graph Display, Numerical Display, Peak Hold, Replay Mode, 1 point/10 point and ghost map tracing. All correction factors are also displayed in percentages. All values and graphs are displayed through the exclusive VFD (Vacuum Florescent Display) screen

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-80310
Share on other sites

Is a S-AFC going to let me run a bigger AFM (Z32 type)? Will it also let me tune the most out of my mods?

Mods I currently have on or being fitted are:

K&N air pod

FMIC

exhaust

High Flow fuel pump

Is the S-AFC really necessary with the RB20DET? How tuneable is the standard ECU on these suckers? Would I be better off looking at an aftermarket ECU?

Thanks!

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-80801
Share on other sites

With a SAFC you should be able to run the Z32 AFM. Can someone confirm this.

The standard ECU is tunable and in my opinion, would give you more power output than just the SAFC because the SAFC adjusts the air/fuel mix, not the ignition timing. If you tune the ECU, you tune both A/F and ignition.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-80885
Share on other sites

Silver-Arrowz - doesn't it depend which eCU you have. On my R33 GTR I'm quite sure its not tuneable. But yes the SAFC doesn't allow you to adjust ignition timing.

I'm not aware of the the SAFC having a special setting for Z32 AFM. The AFM I thought simply takes in readings from the factory sensors for fuel and oxygen and adjusts then slightly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-80908
Share on other sites

Oh yes, your right there. Forgot about that. R33 ECU is not tunable.

With the Power FC it simply changes the voltage signal to whatever the z32 is. I'm thinking that the SAFC can adjust the A/F mixture to suit it, since it taps into the air flow meter anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-80933
Share on other sites

if u want to get technical its not exactly changing the a/f ratios.

It really just tricks the ecu into thinking u r getting less air flow than u really r so that it doesent run so rich!

Its what u call a band aid solution, get the factoru r32 ecu retuned u will get better results.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-81660
Share on other sites

Inasnt: it DOES change the A/F ratios. It just does it by tricking the ECU into thinking less/more air is coming in at any point in time than really is. Because of that, it adjust the amount of fuel it gives it. The only reason a retuned ECU would be better is because you can change things other than the air/fuel ratios like ignition timing. If you just did the fueling on the ECU though, it would be just as good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-81783
Share on other sites

Originally posted by MIC33R

Inasnt: it DOES change the A/F ratios. It just does it by tricking the ECU into thinking less/more air is coming in at any point in time than really is. Because of that, it adjust the amount of fuel it gives it. The only reason a retuned ECU would be better is because you can change things other than the air/fuel ratios like ignition timing. If you just did the fueling on the ECU though, it would be just as good.

i know mate, i got 1!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-81915
Share on other sites

It all comes down to cost. You can get an S-AFC for around $600, whereas a Power FC is over double that. You probably won't get twice the power gains with a Power FC! (it depends on your setup though). But the S-AFC is better than nothing.

My advice would be to get whichever you can afford. If you don't have much spare cash, get the S-AFC, then sell it and upgrade to the Power FC once you can afford it. That's what I'm doing :)

Regarding the bigger AFM, do you just change the meter itself or all the plumbing behind it? Just looking at my intake it all seems to be uniformly the same diameter down to the turbo, I can't figure out what benefits a larger AFM would give.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5247-apexi-safc/#findComment-83692
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...