Jump to content
SAU Community

powercruise streetcar shootout Nov 20

powercruise gup
 Share

Recommended Posts

powercruise gup Apprentice

powercruise gup

Posted
Posted

THE SHOOTOUT IS BACK

Carline Mufflers Powercruise StreetCar ShootOut

Willowbank Raceway Ipswich (The Dragstrip)

Saturday November 20

Cost $25 Adults

Kids 13 and under Free

Gates 6am

Qualifying 9am to 4.30

Racing from 5pm to 10pm

$22,000 in Cash and Prizes

Info www.powercruisestreetcarshootout.com

The Carline Mufflers Powercruise Streetcar Shootout will rock Willowbank Raceway, Ipswich (The Dragstrip) on Saturday November 20.

See all the tough cars that were at Powercruise hit the drag strip to show what they are really made of. Huuuge wheelstands, awesome burnouts (but not Powerskids unfortunately) and all the raw awesome horsepower you would expect to see at a Powercruise event.

With over $20,000 in cash and prizes on the line, you can be sure the Queensland vs New South Wales State of Origin trophy will be a hard fought battle to the finish.

Pro Street Outlaw will headline the event along with Pro Street Blown, Pro Street Unblown, Modified Street Blown, Modified Street Unblown, True Street, Rotary and Dial Your Own racing into the night.

The limit of 200 competitors will ensure plenty of testing for a big night of racing.

A Chicago Shootout style bracket for Pro Street Outlaws will ensure we get to see the quickest cars all the way through the program and from what Craig Thompson tells me, he will have something to blow away the competition. However I think it would take a monster engine in a small car to topple Allan Sarkis’s Centura.

A Pro DYO bracket has been created for the first time so all first round loosers can have a second chance at the prizes. But mainly so we get to see the toughest cars for the most amount of time of course.

US Automotives have decided to throw in a few trophies for the coolest, toughest, baddest, lowest and just outright awesome spectator cars that rock up. Powercruise staff will be at the gate until lunch time picking out the coolest rides for the spectator show and shine on until lunch time. More info to come later.

Carline Mufflers is once again behind the Powercruise name as major sponsor and without their support through all their stores in Queensland, there would be nowhere for the petrol heads to cut loose on Saturday November 20.

Grab a flyer from any Carline Muffler outlet or call 1800carline. That’s 1800 227 546 for your nearest Carline Mufflers store. For more info on classes, rules, prize money or just how much it costs to have a look for the day, check out www.powercruisestreetcarshootout.com or call us on 0407172413. Catch ya racing… gup

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...