Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB20 + turbo + good exhaust = :jump: (read shit loads of power & fun)

simple equation but i've never actually investigated the exhaust part myself...i'm after some help / advice with a new exhaust system for my r32 gtst.

I want as much power gain as possible and for that really loud RB20/25/26 "howl". Do i simply need a cat-back system or do need dump pipes done as well? I have an Apexi PFC running the show and boost is up to about 10/11 psi...any info would be handy and if anyone knows any reputable, no-bullshit workshops in Sydney that'd be a real help too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53600-im-exhausted/
Share on other sites

3 inch exhaust from the turbo back. (not just cat back)

mild steel or stainless.. doesn't matter..

small (possibly cannon type) muffler.

3 inch Hi flowing CAT converter.

NO resonator muffler (they just quieten it and you want it loud)

that will give you the maximum power and loud noise you are after..

workshops - any known exhaust place could do it..

or you could get it all japanese... but they tend to be quieter..

Speak to a guy on these forums with the user id BATMBL.

he can get you a good price for the CAT and front/dump pipe.

then buy a cannon muffler and take it all to an exhaust place and ask them to fit it all and make up some 3 inch straight as possible piping from cat to the cannon muffler you bought.

then you have what you are after..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53600-im-exhausted/#findComment-1051661
Share on other sites

i found getting my 'line "loud" is bit hard,

i got 3" front pipe, 3" hi flow cat, 3.5" cat back with a 7" barrel

took the resonator out coz it was bit quiet, its bit louder now but still not as loud as i thought, i like it though how in the cabin its still nice and sports but at hi revs yes it screams...

cheers...ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53600-im-exhausted/#findComment-1051738
Share on other sites

That's right, they sound much better than the RB25. :whip:

you think?!

your opinion, but i think the exhaust note of the 20 is quite boring. whereas the 25 as more character. havent heard many 26s though.

ive had 4 exhausts on my car and havent really been happy with note from any of them. they need lumpy cams to sound good. nice and racey.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53600-im-exhausted/#findComment-1052618
Share on other sites

3 inch exhaust from the turbo back. (not just cat back)

mild steel or stainless.. doesn't matter..

small (possibly cannon type) muffler.

3 inch Hi flowing CAT converter.

NO resonator muffler (they just quieten it and you want it loud)

that will give you the maximum power and loud noise you are after..

workshops - any known exhaust place could do it..

or you could get it all japanese... but they tend to be quieter..

Speak to a guy on these forums with the user id  BATMBL.

he can get you a good price for the CAT and front/dump pipe.

then buy a cannon muffler and take it all to an exhaust place and ask them to fit it all and make up some 3 inch straight as possible piping from cat to the cannon muffler you bought.

then you have what you are after..

Thanks dude - one thing i forgot to add was roughly how much a set up like this would cost if i use mild steel for the exhaust...any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53600-im-exhausted/#findComment-1057122
Share on other sites

front/dump pipe in one cost = about $250 I think from user on this forum BATMBL.

CAT = $200??? from BATMBL again.

catback system custom made with no resonator muffler and a small stainless cannon muffler would be about $400 - $500.. (I got my piping with resonator muffler for $250 and I had my cannon already...

I got my piping done at

Carline Mufflers at Belfield.

Owners name is Robert.

9750 6281

they have some mufflers you can chose from there if you want or buy one yourself from an online store and get them to weld it on.

so all up, worst case senario...

$250 dump/front pipe

$300 cat

$300 cat back

$200 muffler

about $1000....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53600-im-exhausted/#findComment-1057154
Share on other sites

I just had done my exhaust on the weekend. 3" turbo back with i think 5" muffler n 4 " tip.

I got it done at liverpool exhaust. I would definitively recommend them, very friendly service, great work and fairly cheap. I cost me $1000 for the mild steel pipes and stainless steel muffler.

The sound is great, loud and rumbly. At the beginning I thought it was too loud but I’m getting use to it.

Now I get 3-4 psi extra boost.

If you go ask to speak to Jimmy and say Ned with 4 door R32 sent you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53600-im-exhausted/#findComment-1057383
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...