Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just interested to find out how guys launch their beast at the drags.

Do you guys like to do a burnout to warm up yout tires or just get on with it?

And a question for the guys who have been down to the track for a run what are the impressions of other drivers of your beast?

:whackit:

:cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53722-launch-techniques/
Share on other sites

7700rpm against a launch limiter, release clutch

Thanks but not much help, the std rev limiter seems to be at 7,500 rpm and mine's an auto.

In the dry I stand on the brakes, hard. Stick it in drive and raise the revs until the torque converter holds the rpm there. Take foot of brake and floor the accelerator. No wheelspin from the standard engine just :wavey:

In the wet I ..... well exactly the same :wavey:

So I need more power then we might get some :burnout:

:cheers:

bring on the burning rubber.

when i see gtrs down at the drags or on dvd's when they warm up their tyres they always do a huge burnout, but they only smoke the rear tyres how does that work? are they in 2wd mode or something? or does using the brake to ensure you dont roll stop the front from spinning?

bring on the burning rubber.

when i see gtrs down at the drags or on dvd's when they warm up their tyres they always do a huge burnout, but they only smoke the rear tyres how does that work? are they in 2wd mode or something? or does using the brake to ensure you dont roll stop the front from spinning?

They stick them in 2wd to warm up the rear tyres as they cop most of the launch load. They have a line locker on the front brakes to hold them while the rears spin. :cheers:

I used to just hold the brake down while i floor the accel. after 4-5 secs wheels would start spinnin slow then after 30 secs a good amount of smoke was comin out from under, would keep going and gettin faster if i kept it there, but this was on 11psi and shell optimax with redex octane boost.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...