Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok time again for an updated picture. I have recently had the cam covers and inlet manifold powdercoated, turned out pretty good i think. The black cover in the middle has still only got a cover of primer on it so it'll look a little better in a few days. I have actually cut out the raised nissan emblem that was in the middle of this and filled it over with fiberglass.

DSC02181.jpg

The Turbo kit i got i purchased off a fellow forum member, "Steve". It's a HKS 3037 + HKS wastegate but locally made manifold and dump pipe. Think i paid about $4000 for it all including intercooler piping and oil lines.

It was his original forum thread that convinced me that i needed the 3037 and when it came time for me to actually purchase one he was returning his car to stock, so i purchased his complete setup.

Not too much longer i hope, it has taken me 2 years to get to this stage. Just need to find the time to get the engine back in. Both me and my old man have a couple of weeks off over christmas so hopefully i'll get 99% of it done then.

No idea why steve returned his car back to stock, you'll have to ask him he's still on these forums.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I've really only got the intercooler piping left to do. I had been waiting the last month for a trust blow off valve to arrive from nengun and that finally arrived this week. On saturday i'll go see what piping/bends etc that i need and hopefully i can find the time in the next couple of weeks to get that made up.

Edited by B33st
  • 1 month later...

Have not had much of a chance to do a whole lot in the past few weeks. The intercooler is mounted and the pipe is all cut to size just need to get it welded up. I also need to get a new hose made up for the air con as it current one fouls on the exhaust manifold.

I'm off to VIC for a couple of weeks from tomorrow (grand prix and fishing trip up the Murray) and then hopefully i can get stuck into the last few things when i get back.

I'll post as soon as some more progress is made.

I went with him as previously i was getting most stuff done by Hardcore at slacks creek and i found out that he was the one that was doing all the headwork / machining for them so pretty much went straight to the source. He's pretty well known in drag racing circles and has been supercomp champion a few times now racing his own cars, you'll see his name across the top of the main stand at willowbank.

HARDCORE "PERFORMANCE"???? *shudder*

Mate, my advise is to stay away from Hardcore, unless you want to buy something like a tacho or a blow off valve. In the few times i've been there where i had a leaking intercooler (which i knew because it was prone to that), and took my car in to fix that and only that. I had a subzero plenum on it, which they tried to tell me the runners werent sealing properly and re-welded without asking, and said it fixed the problem (which it didnt), then got the suprise of having a coke bottle stuck between my intercooler and bumper (which they treid to convince me they didnt put it there), add to that an undone throttle cable which got stuck half open when trying to test to see if my intercooler was fixed, and a fuel rail which wasnt done up and p!ssed fuel everwhere (which they told me it was done up really tight, and must have a problem with the thread!), and luckily enough i was stopped by a pedestrian before i left who pointed the leak out to me.T

The mother of all has to be a squashed by them sump because they thought its a great jacking point... this lead to an oil pickup problem, which subsequently led to a big end gone 5mins after leaving their shop whilst i was going up moss st, testing my to see if my still cracked intercooler was fixed (which you've already figured it wasnt)!

To top it all off, i took the car back and it went up on the hoist, and they found this mysterious crack in the cooler, which they tried to tell me it wasnt there before (even though i only drove the car for 5mins).... If thats not enough, when i told them about the sump, they denied it, even whilst having a squashed pickup in my hand!

This isnt the first story i've heard like that from that hell workshop. Dont say you werent warned about them... they're dodgy as they get, and not worth the money you save by seeing them. Steer clear!

EDIT - they also tried to tell me that they fixed my intercooler leak (which was aparantly pressure tested!), and that the ecu needs to be remapped because it was mapped with a leaking vacuum hose! Its a beyond a joke, and im still rebuilding the engine because of this crap.

Edited by Cool Hand Luke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
×
×
  • Create New...