Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, my R32 arrived at my door yesterday, and I'm struggling to find an engineer to comply my car. I've found one, but would really rather someone refer me to one that I know does a good job. The only one I've found so far is a guy called Steve in Knox.

Over the phone he quoted me:

$1100

- Drivers mirror

- Fuel filler restrictor

- dash light dimmer

- side intrusion bars (coupe)

- Rear high level brake light

- new CAT

- and of course certificate

- all done in 5 working days

*First of all is this reasonable pricing?

*Secondly is there any other engineers you guys can recommend (preferably East of Melbourne), and what on average are their prices?

This info would be really helpful for alot of people in Vic who'll be getting their 15 year old cars shortly...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55182-engineers-for-compliancing-an-r32/
Share on other sites

Ok, i can't help you with the compliance thing.....

BUT we do need some pics of your new ride!!! :)

Hey yeah good idea - here's a couple of pics. Looks great in pictures but I think i'm gonna have to give it a respray. I was told it was in excellent condition but it seems to be far from it. That's the risk hey...

that sounds about rightr... usually comppliancers these days are bogged down, so 5 working days is an awesome deal for $1100. My ceffy cost $1100 but it had to have 2 extra side intrusion bars fitted. For a 2 door I was quoted $1000, but it took about 3 weeks for mine to be done, and I'd have paid the extra $100 to have it done in 5 days.

that sounds about rightr... usually comppliancers these days are bogged down, so 5 working days is an awesome deal for $1100. My ceffy cost $1100 but it had to have 2 extra side intrusion bars fitted. For a 2 door I was quoted $1000, but it took about 3 weeks for mine to be done, and I'd have paid the extra $100 to have it done in 5 days.

I paid $750 for mine because it was two door and two seater :)

also a 4door would cost more offcourse as its 4doors and 5seats ?

Cheers

seats don't mean shit in VIC, as you don't have to worry about seatbelts here.

ceffies n skylines are a little bit more difficult to compliance than FC's

my new baby is currently at place in Knoxfield. quoted $1050. Could be the same place.. I can't remember the guys name off the top of my head.. wait it's Gary!

got my place done at the same place as this guy. Lena Engineering the name of the place.

still got his card in my wallet 0412716671 name is Gary. did a good job and replaced my pipe that had the blow off valve with a new pipe free of charge (let me keep old pipe).

edit: only took 4 days too

yeah he's a top bloke, most of the guys that go thru j-spec with 15 yr old cars we try and get Gary to compliance... good rates, top quality work, and a nice guy overall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...