Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I was considering doing a RB30 bottom end make the GTR 3L tt, but every1 said to much work, what yas all reckon?

Head is repairable.

Quoted $800.

Really need new block, turbos highflowed and head repaired. Most of the prices ive seen for this are more expensive then new engine, but i was very keen on doing the 3L convestion just to do sumthing different and working on the car for next 6months.

Every1 talked me out of it so far......how hard is it to do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56870-rb26dett/#findComment-1100581
Share on other sites

I say rebuild will be cheaper than 7k anyway - plus with forgies!

Nah, it'll be $7k minimum with forgies + head rebuild + turbos.

exhale 32, 26 head on a rb30 is a bit mismatched. The flow of the head is more suited for high revs, and the rb30 bottom end is never going to do that with a 7000rpm redline. Not without a new crank girdle and/or billet crank anyway.

By mismatched I mean a decent rb25 head will actually give more power at part throttle than a rb26 head. The rb26 head only really comes into its own at full throttle (larger valves) and high revs (solid valve train).

Still, if you want to go for it, just find someone willing to build it. It is a bit of a hassel though, with the drilling of larger 12mm head bolt holes in the block, tensioner positioning and the extra 38mm on block height. This is all imho :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56870-rb26dett/#findComment-1101234
Share on other sites

GOT BOOST I havent seen my dad in ages, ill ask him tonight what he's heard.

Do you think it'll be possible to have the whole engine completed with forgies and high flowed turbos done and installed for 7k?

What i need is.

1. Head rebuilt or new 1

2. New block

3. High flow turbos

What kinda price am i looking at just estimating.

Cause it might be cheaper just to buy a whole new engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56870-rb26dett/#findComment-1102120
Share on other sites

if your gonna be selling the car buy another engine complete with everything.(then dont let your mates drive it before you sell it) as for costing and rebuilt engine you'll have to speak to a workshop who specialises in building them.Or someone thats just had theirs done to the same extent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56870-rb26dett/#findComment-1102181
Share on other sites

Have a rebuilder RB26 engine here with head complete, block complete and intake.

No injectors or exhaust manifolds.

$3K and needs a freshen only but that will still set you back around $3-4K

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56870-rb26dett/#findComment-1102216
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...