Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

[problem with my power steering and hicas]

i know this topic has been on here many times before but i dont know whether any of the feed back applies to me.

well anyway i bought my R32 GTS-t with an aftermarket steering wheel and the hicas light keeps goin on after like 2mins of driving. after a few months of having the car i had to replace the steering wheel due to the horn kept popping out.

i put on a standard r32 wheel and soon after my power steering partially stopped working (as in its hard but not like its not working at all). after i turn on the key and drive around for about 2mins the hicas light goes on and the power steering stops. i was told it was the power steering pump so iv'e replaced it and it still doesnt work. ive had it replaced 4 times now but it's still the same. i've also noticed once or twice that on some rainy days the power steering works fine.

since then i replaced the steering wheel again with a momo one and now the right indicator doesn't want to stay on when im turning.

i will be getting a wheel alignment soon (hopefully it will fix my hicas)

does anyone know what the power steering problem would be? the fluid is not low... would it be anything to do with the steering wheel? or hicas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56883-hicas-power-steering/
Share on other sites

i have a similar issue as this.. but mine works fine when it's hot.. and is linked with my speedo for some reason..

give the car a thrash around the track .. 2 laps down.. the speedo is working as is the power steering :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...