Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok jst bought my car recently an R33 gtst gun metal grey in color, The mods are as follows:-

* FMIC

* After market Fuel Pump

* Pod Filter

* 3 inch exhaust straight thru

* Dual Stage Boost Controller

* Standard ECU piggybacked

I am told it has 180rwkw but wana get a bit more power out of it like around 240kw i would be happy.

What would be the next step im thinking turbo but dont wana get a new one so was thinking to hi flow the turbo. What Workshop is good with hi flowing the r33 turbo has anyone got it done and reccomends somebody??

And people are saying on the forum 14psi is the max boost u can run off the standard turbo but im running 16psi atm?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56921-new-to-forums-need-advice/
Share on other sites

Be carefull running 16psi through the stock turbo, 14psi is the limit usually and you should only be running that occasionaly so 16psi is really pushing its lifespan. http://www.gcg.com.au/ do good highflow jobs and are widely recommended and used by people on this forum, including me. My turbo had the 500hp highflow done to it, and has seen 18psi with no worries, 500 - 700 rpm laggier down the bottom but holds strong all the way to the rev limiter. Try and find out what the piggy back computer is... Also moving up into that power area (what my car is running with the same mods as you) you'll also be pushing your injectors (unless you have a wolf 3d or you are from perth) and your clutch will slip for sure. Other than that everything should be fabulas, maybe a fuel regulater to pump the fuel pressure up a tad.

Hope this helps. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...