Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for sale 93 gtr show condition. featuring in magazine very soon. 272kw at the wheels on 13psi

Engine built by Gavin Wood in QLD who is one of Australia's best GTR Tuners. approx 3000Kms old never ran over 13psi.

68000km on clock.

Custom cooler and intake piping by dysons rotary in QLD

Fresh Paint work by DMD the Image in QLD. (includes engine bay)

see pics at (http://www.platinumcarclub.com/html/chris_..._s_r32_gtr.html)

(offers $30000 and above) email [email protected] or call 0403615225 :flamed:

ENGINE MODS :flamed:

Fresh engine with 3000km

96 GTR engine

Power fc and hand controller

JUN cams

N1 pistons

Genuine N1 oil pump

Genuine N1 water pump

Genuine N1 bearings

NISMO Bearings

NISMO 2 way LSD

Hydraulic 4wd

96 GTR turbo’s

New ported and machined head

Machined valve guides

Woodruff keys

New crankshaft

Full drag exhaust

Fully Balanced Engine

Valve guides

Oil catch can

Custom polished oversized cooler piping

Custom intake pipes

Larger airflow meters

Re-plumed oil pipes

Fuel pressure gauge

Boost gauge

Twin HKS air pods

SARD BOV

EXTERIOR MODS

New custom purple paint

Electronic 4wd torque controller

Polished jimmy head wheels

TEIN suspension coil overs

Flared guards

Oversized cross drilled front disks

Carbon eyelids

Aftermarket Head lights

N1 Front bar

Removed Rear wing

INTERIOR MODS

Carbon dial background

White AXS WRX seat covers

Pillar mounted Boost gauge

Autotecnica gear knob

Autotecnica steering wheel

STEREO

Sony mp3 player

6” splits

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59204-93-gtr/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...