Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All! Ive just ordered a Tein Super Street kit for my 34 (if theyre no good its too late now anyways!! hehe) - has anyone used these before? I heard theyre ok for our roads cause they can be adjusted to be quite soft but also give a good feel on the hard setting?

also with adjustables is it a given that the lower you go with them the harder they should be set?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62177-tein-super-street-comments/
Share on other sites

I got some for my r33 gtst last week and I havn't found the ride to hard at all, you definetely feel the bump more and have to slow down on bad road but not uncomfortable. The handling improvement from the standard gtst is like a different car and adjusting shocks makes a large difference for body role. As you lower the car you actually losen the springs, so they are actually softer for lower and harder when the car is higher.

They feel great to me, though I haven't had much to compare against. I have never used adjustable suspension before, but I found that it can make a huge difference on the track. Was understeering terribly on the track, a few turns of the damper and the understeer was almost gone.

The ride is actually better (not as hard) as my old stuffed shocks and lowered springs. So was a huge improvement everywhere in my R33.

Sydneykid: Pretty much all the information is available here:

http://www.tein.co.jp/ssdamp2ne.html

And just because I am nice, I worked out all the conversions (there may be an easier way!!). According to the booklet I received with the suspension they are 4kgf/mm front and rear.

From the references:

1kgf/mm = 9.80665N/mm

Therefore:

4kgf/mm = 39.22660N/mm

From the references:

1N/mm = 5.714 lbf/in

Therefore:

39.22660N/mm = 224.1407lbf/in

Therefore the answer is 224lb springs front and rear.

References:

http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Tech...e_conversio.htm

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu..._reference.html

PS: Thanks for all the excellent posts Sydneykid, when I see your posts I stop and read them from start to finish. ;)

I do it this way.....4kg/mm X 25.4 (mm's in an inch) X 2.2 (lbs in a kg) = 224 lbs per inch.

Which is OK for the front, but still too high for the rear. I would guess that they are still trying to compensate for the low rear anti roll by running a higher than necessary (to hold the car up) rear spring rate. A stabiliser bar upgrade is a technically superior solution. In the real world that means it won't compromise the ride comfort as much and allow much better (less wheelspin, more traction) launches.

:D

Well your way made a lot more sense! Glad I still came up the correct answer though :D

I really like this suspension, its hard but not too hard even for my 100km/h country roads. Compared to with my previous stuffed stocks with lowered springs its pure bliss, I don't have much else to compare too I'm afraid. :)

I had the front and rear set at 2 points (12 point adjustable from memory) from the softest setting. The rear was also set way too low (probably 30cm centre to guard). I found that in a straight line under acceleration you could feel the rear compress significantly and it was very difficult to get any wheel spin at all (i have allow subframe bushes too) - probably pretty good for the drags but not so great round the corners.

I've since changed the rear to about the 5th or 6th point (in the middle - probably too hard this time!) and the the front to the 4th setting. I've also adjusted the height according to the spec sheet ~ 33.5-34cm centre to guard front & rearl. Very much looking forward to testing this out at the next track day... once I've replaced the turbo :D

I'm looking at getting some upgraded front and rear sway/stabiliser bars from whiteline - would this be the next logical progression or would I be better off to get some more caster in the front?

From memory the spec sheet said 33.5cm centre wheel to guard. From the posts I've read (mostly Sydneykids!), the reccommendation is 34 - 35cm.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...center+to+guard

Also checkout these:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/HPI_1..._Skyline01a.htm

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/Fact_Shee...line_R33GTS.PDF

Hope that helps :P

so they are actually softer for lower and harder when the car is higher.

Sorry Reedy, but I need to kill this quickly............

A 200 lbs per inch linear rate spring takes 200 lbs to move it one inch, or if you prefer....

A 3.5kg/mm spring takes 3.5 kgs to move it one mm.

It doesn't matter whether that is the first inch (mm) or the 10th inch (mm) it still takes 200 lbs (3.5kgs) to move it one inch (one mm).

The amount of preload is determined by the weight of the car. If that corner of the car weighs 400 lbs (182 kgs) then the spring will need to compress 2 inches (51mm) to hold it up. But it still takes 200 lbs (3.5kgs) to move it the next inch (25.4mm).

Progressive spring rates USUALLY compress all of the softer rate just in holding the car up. ie; they are progressive to make sure the spring doesn't go loose at full droop. They are not progessive to make the ride softer initially. This is not ALL progressive sapring just Most of them.

Hope that makes sense :P

I just received one of them!!!! (yay!) - gotta wait for the rest now.. :cheers:

Did any of you guys sets come pre-set with what at least Tein would say is the best settings for the car?? I was reading something on the internet and it sounded like it says they are already pre-set?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
×
×
  • Create New...